So here I am over 13 years of surfing experience under my wetsuit and I am racking my brains to remember how to explain to a non-surfer the logistics of surfing. I don’t want to just say “get on your board, paddle out like me and then when you see a wave, turn, paddle hard and stand up” – that was the way I was taught and that was frustrating at the beginning, not to mention I’m not a big fan of gulping down buckets of salt water (talk about waterboarding). Baptism by fire works for some but not for many, coupled with the fact, I would feel I had let someone down by not teaching them properly. With this in mind and with the enthusiasm of some of my fellow Yardbarkers, I am going to pave a way (hopefully) for a beginner surfer and perhaps a refresher course for those who have journeyed out a few times to the thrill of the waves.
Swimming:
Believe it or not being a good or strong swimmer is extremely helpful for any level of surfing. I suggest you have a practice run at how far you can swim out and back, without your floaties preferably. As with any sport or activity, there is an element of risk when physically asserting oneself and the ocean can be mighty unpredictable. Never go out farther than you can swim out and back to, even on your board, it can get tiring very quickly.
Being physically fit is a no-brainer for surfers, at any level. Its extremely demanding on the body, particularly the shoulders, arms, core, and back. Even experienced surfers get exhaustion from paddling out and carving or performing maneuvers. There unfortunately is no exercise to mimic paddling on a board. Swimming is close but you will see once you get out there. I highly recommend yoga – it is great at training your body for balance, core strength, and overall stretching.
Warm-up:
Yes, just like all physical activity you have to warm up by stretching and getting the blood flowing. Go for a quick run and follow it with yoga stretches targeting the main body. You don’t ever want to enter cold water without warming up, your muscles will not like you nor will they perform for you.
Boards:
Most people start on Longboards. I personally hate them, they are awkward and feel as if you are steering the Titanic. You can catch any water on a Longboard even in a bathtub if the darn thing fit. I recommend a funboard (hybrid), its stripped of all the bulk of a longboard, wider front and center and the rails are soft, great flotation and catches most waves – hence the name Fun board. They are usually about 7-8 feet tall.
Ready to get out there?:
Okay, so now you are staring out at the ocean raring to go. Now most surfers would tell you to practice what is known as a ‘pop-up’ on the sand. Popping up is when you go from paddling (lying on the board and using your arms to ‘row’ you out, to standing up on the board. I personally think this is putting the cart before the horse. I think one needs to just get the feel of he waves and the board itself plus your timing of the waves. There is no timeframe for learning to surf like a pro, so just go at your own pace. You’ve got the leash ( that’s the Velcro ankle strap that attaches you to the board – very important) around the ankle and make your way out into the white water.
Hold your board out in front, arms length with hands on both sides of the rails (the side of the board), if you don’t, you could get the board right smack back into your face. This happened to me several times until I got the joke. Walk yourself out in the smaller waves, jumping over them as they come, look for waves that are breaking towards you. Be careful not to walk out into the path of another surfer riding the wave. Like being in a car, the surfer on the wave has right of way, it is your responsibility to move out of his or her way. If you are out in water that is getting deeper you will now have to duck dive under the waves. This is harder than it seems and you will need to practice this to perfect it. You can do this in small waves so you feel comfortable in the bigger ones. Ducking under the wave assures that all that paddling you just did to get out there is not in vain where the wave washes you back. I hate having to pay for the same real estate twice.
Duck Diving: FYI you cannot duck dive on a longboard.
Place both hands on the rails out in front of you and push downwards, sinking the nose of your board under the water. Keep your arms straight and lean forward a bit to help get more of the board under the water. Just before the wave breaks over you, most of your board should be submerged - make sure that you take a deep breath – salt water tastes yuckie. As the wave starts to go over you, lay out flat creating as little resistance as possible your knee or back foot (for extra deep dives) should be putting pressure on the back of the surfboard, leveling it out under the water. As the wave passes over, angle your board back up to the surface. If you have duck dived correctly you should be in a position to immediately start paddling again. The quicker that you can resume paddling out, the quicker that you will get out back and the less energy you will be expending.
Positions Please!:
You are now ready and in a position to catch a wave. Position yourself beside your board with the nose facing the beach, keep looking over your shoulder for a wave that looks good. Just as the wave is about to reach you, push the surfboard towards the beach and at the same time pull yourself up onto he board, (yes its alot to do but so is making a souffle - this is much more entertaining) so you are lying flat on top of it. When you are lying balanced on top of your surfboard, paddle with both arms as the wave approaches from behind. Keep paddling (you will hate paddling after the first day I truly promise you) as the wave starts to pick you up, you should feel the board rise in the water as the wave picks you up and you will feel an increase in your speed as the wave starts to push you. You should have just caught your first wave. Bravo!
Catching waves glitches:
Okay so maybe you didn’t catch the wave - several times. Maybe you got thrown off and drank too much water. Don’t worry you may just be too far forward and need to lie back a bit on the board. Try arching your back to add more weight to the middle to back of the board. Or try paddling earlier or faster. Just keep practicing on catching the wave rather than surfing. It’s about feeling the board and wave and how you react to them both. Oh and about all the salt water you have been drinking? Close your mouth.
