The spring climbing season has come to an end on Mt. Everest. The annual phenomenon of the Jet Stream moving several hundred miles north of the Himalayas, which allows mountaineers to attempt Mt. Everest and other 8,000-meter peaks in the mountain range. The period typically lasts approximately 1-2 months during the pre-monsoon season in the spring. By late May or early June, the monsoon storms usher the Jet Stream back to its natural location above the Himalayas.
This year, the Jet Stream seemed to persist for much of the season, leading to unpredictable weather and high winds. Now, the Jet Stream is fully back, and the climbing Season is over. Another climbing season typically occurs in the fall following the monsoon season, but no expeditions have applied for permits at this time. This could be the result of higher permit costs implemented this year, which raised the price from $11,000 to $15,000 per person.
While rare, some climbers attempt to climb 8,000-meter peaks in the winter. With the close of spring climbing, there may be little to no mountaineering on Everest until next year. ExplorersWeb reported that the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) did an outstanding job reducing the amount of garbage that climbers leave on the mountain. Their efforts continue to preserve the pristine beauty of Mount Everest, despite the increasing number of climbers attempting to summit the world's highest mountain.
Himal Gautam, director at Nepal’s Department of Tourism (DoT), reported to Everest Chronicle that 694 individuals summited from Nepal’s south side this season. “This included 257 foreign climbers, nine Nepali nationals with climbing permits, 421 Sherpas and high-altitude guides, and seven members of the rope-fixing team,” the official said.
On Everest’s north side, all the climbing expeditions made the summit, which could double the number of summiteers when the official numbers are counted. Although high winds dominated decision-making on the south side, the mountain remained crowded for most of the season. The north side was less congested, and the weather was far calmer.
Alpenglow Expeditions, led by Adrian Ballinger, reached the summit on the north side on May 27, with a team comprised of 11 foreign climbers and 11 Sherpas. The North Ridge Route (Tibetan Route) starts on Everest's Tibetan (North) side. Base Camp sits at approximately 16,900 feet. Climbers ascend through the Rongbuk Glacier and battle high altitudes for a dangerously long period on the North Ridge and the challenging Second Step.
“There was not a breath of wind, and [it was] shockingly warm,” leader Adrian Ballinger told ExplorersWeb. “This was my 10th summit, and I had the fun opportunity to climb from Advanced Base Camp to Camp 2 on day 1, and Camp 2 to the summit on day 2, skipping Camps 1 and 3.”
Alpenglow employs a unique and innovative program designed for safer and faster climbing. This program utilizes Hypoxico tents and a tailored training program. They take the scientific program to climb peaks reaching 6,000m, 7,000m, and 8,000m. For more than ten years, Aplenglow has perfected the technique of pre-acclimatization.
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