Welcome to part two of "Fishing with Jess McGlothlin." As a working photographer, writer, and angler in the fly fishing industry, I spend a good amount of time working in various lodges and destinations around the world. In this series here in Men’s Journal - The Endless Season, I’ll walk you through places I visit, sharing a few images and videos, logistics info (how do you get there, what else to do in the area), fishing intel, insider tips, and more.
This time we’re visiting Estancia Laguna Verde Lodge, situated on Argentina’s Lago Strobel Lake (also aptly named “Jurassic Lake” for the size of the massive rainbow trout that swim there).
Located in the massive southern Argentine province of Santa Cruz, Estancia Laguna Verde rests near Lago Strobel, aka “Jurassic Lake” to those in the know. The turquoise waters of the lake are home to resident freshwater shrimp, which sustain a healthy population of freakishly-large rainbow trout. Most fly anglers in the know have heard rumors of Jurassic Lake and the rainbows that call it home.
Beyond massive, chrome-tinted rainbow trout, what should anglers expect when visiting Estancia Laguna Verde? You’ll fish both area “lagoons” (smaller lakes, one of which is Laguna Verde just below the lodge) plus Strobel itself, on a schedule that’s nicely Argentine. After a hot breakfast in the home-away-from-home comfort of the lodge, anglers meet with their guides and head out for a day of fly fishing. Anglers are paired with their guides (the lodge runs a team of excellent, skilled Argentine guides) and a Hilux truck for the week, which they’ll use to access different “beats,” or sections of the lake.
Lunch is taken at one of several huts located along the lake shore, offering a respite from the wind and a chance to catch up with other anglers and see how their day is going. The afternoon of fishing runs into the evening; most days, anglers will be back at the lodge by 7PM or so, allowing time for a hot shower before appetizers, drinks, and a fine Argentine-style dinner. It’s a routine that’s addictive in its simplicity, geared to allow anglers long hours on the water as they make the most of their visit.
Estancia Laguna Verde also provides access to the nearby Barrancoso River, offering river fishing for anglers who would like a break from the lake. The river winds through gorgeous canyons, and a day spent walking and casting dry flies to hungry trout is indeed a day very well spent..
Don’t plan on bringing your 4- and 5-weight trout rods to Lago Strobel. The lake is big, and the trout are sized to match; therefore, bigger rods are in order. I primarily fished with 8-weight rods for the trip (if you struggle with casting in wind, a 9 could be helpful as well), and it’s wise to pack along floating, intermediate-tip, and sinking lines for the various kinds of water you’ll encounter. (If you plan to fish the Barrancoso River, a five-weight with floating line is good to pack along as well.) The guides will be more than happy to help you set up and finesse your outfit throughout the week.
For flies, pack along a selection of streamers tied on strong hooks, large nymphs, and well-floating Chubby Chernobyls (tied with thick foam). You’ll be fishing in a variety of water depths and situations, and the weather changes rapidly in this part of the world, so being prepared is key.
On the note of weather, pack along a burly pair of waders, boots, and a wading jacket. The wind is nearly constant on Lago Strobel, and you’ll want to dress in layers that you can adjust throughout the day. A warm hat, gloves, and a Buff will go a long way toward keeping you comfortable, and don’t forget the sunscreen. A truly waterproof bag or backpack will help protect against both spray and rain.
The lodge is modern, comfortable, and well-designed for anglers. Twelve guest rooms are centered around a wader room, where your wet gear can dry out after each day of fishing. Rooms are outfitted with some of the most comfortable lodge beds I’ve experienced, private bathrooms, and plenty of room to lay out gear.
The lodge team runs a tight but relaxed ship, and under the careful eye of manager/hostess Karina, pastry chef extraordinaire Sara, and the entire lodge team, anglers are well cared for. The kitchen puts out stellar Argentine food, including weekly asado and empanada nights, and the wine selection is both deep and bountiful. (It’s Argentina, after all.) Don’t be shy about refueling each night; you’ll need the energy for tomorrow's long day of fishing.
Managed by head guide Martín, the guide roster is filled with charismatic, skilled, and fascinating Argentines. These gentlemen are very good at their job of putting guests in the best position to catch fish regardless of the conditions, and they leverage their experience to ensure everyone is as successful as possible while also enjoying the fishing. It’s a guide team you'll want to get to know, and one of the most interesting teams I’ve had the opportunity to work alongside.
If you’re looking to fish in an otherworldly location (Lago Strobel is vast and wild), land big rainbow trout, and experience life in rural Argentina, put Estancia Laguna Verde on your list. It’s well worth the trip.
If you want to follow along on these trips and get behind-the-scenes access, be sure to follow me on Instagram for updates from the field.
Logistics:
Fly Into: Buenos Aires, Argentina (Ministro Pistarini International Airport, airport code EZE). You’ll then transfer to the domestic airport in Buenos Aires, Jorge Newbury (airport code AEP). Pending traffic, it’s about a 45-minute ride between the two; you can take a taxi or book a ride in advance. You’ll fly from AEP to the cute town of El Calafate, where you’ll overnight before being picked up by Estancia Laguna Verde’s transfer van for the 2.5/3-hour ride to meet the lodge’s guides and their Hilux trucks, who will take you the remaining 2.5/3 hours to the lodge. The lodge’s staff logistics coordinator Silvia is excellent at helping anglers navigate the travel logistics.
Duration of visit: I recommend staying for a week at Estancia Laguna Verde to accommodate rough weather days and to allow for maximum fishing time on the lake.
Fish and Stay With: Estancia Laguna Verde, or their sister lodge on the same lake, Lago Strobel Lodge.
Exploring Buenos Aires: Talk with LOL Argentina Tourism Solutions for airport transfers, city tours, tango shows, and more.
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