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The elite Sherpa team tasked with fixing ropes to the top of Lhotse summited today, marking the first summit of the season on the Himalayan peak. Lhotse, meaning "South Peak" in Tibetan and the 4th highest mountain in the world, stands 27,940 ft. Connected to Everest by the South Col, Lhotse's summit lies to the south, while its subsidiary peak, Lhotse Shar, extends to the east. The Lhotse Face, a steep and icy incline, poses a significant challenge for climbers attempting to reach the summits of both Everest and Lhotse.

ExplorersWeb reported that Pasang Tenje Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa, Migma Dorjee Sherpa, Ming Dawa Sherpa, and Pas Rinzi Sherpa summited Lhotse at 5:40 pm Nepal time. A second Sherpa team, from 8K Expeditions, should complete the fixed route on Mount Everest, 8,849m (29,029 feet), and summit at any moment. “The plan is to reach the summit between May 8 and May 10,” said lead climber Lakpa Sherpa of 8K Expeditions.

The team persists to the summit of the world’s highest peak despite climbing in darkness after long summit pushes. The mountain appears stable at this time, which will allow the Sherpa team to push on. Their intense efforts will open the gates for other expeditions to make their final summit bids, which will happen immediately as climbers seek to tag the top of Everest as soon as possible.

Sherpa Team Nears the Summit of Mt. Everest to Complete Route

These Sherpa teams are powerful, and several will continue to climb with clients on Everest and Lhotse throughout the spring climbing season. The season will end in early June when the Jetstream monsoon winds and storms arrive.

When the climbing opens to the top, Everest expeditions will establish positions. Some will be eager to go early, while others will wait for the crowds to dissipate before launching their final summit push. Regardless, all teams will closely watch the weather. All teams will retreat to Base Camp for a final long rest before launching their summit bids.

When ready, and with a favorable forecast of at least one week, the teams typically hit Camp 1 through Camp 4 (South Col, or High Camp) in successive days. With a record number of permits on Everest this season, delays and crowding are expected.

The Expedition Operators Association of Nepal assigns rope-fixing on specific 8,000-meter peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, Manaslu, and Ama Dablam. On the other ten Himalayan giants, Expedition teams work together to fix the routes with rope. Excitement is growing as teams prepare to tackle the highest mountains in the world - stay tuned.


This article first appeared on Outdoors on SI and was syndicated with permission.

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