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Preparing to Climb Mt. Rainier in 2025: An Essential Guide Part 3 - Routes

Originally posted on Outdoors on SI | By John Waechter | Last updated Jan 14, 2025 12:00 PM ET

Mt. Rainier Climbing Routes

Mount Rainier, the 14,410 ft. iconic stratovolcano in Washington State, offers climbers a range of diverse and challenging routes. These routes vary in difficulty, length, and scenery, making Mount Rainier a popular destination for both new and experienced mountaineers. Here, you will find a brief introduction to some of the different climbing routes on Mt. Rainier. As Mt. Rainier sits in a National Park, climbers simply need a permit issued through the Park Service to climb any route. If you are a first-time climber or novice, I strongly recommend you research the three accredited concessioners that guide on the mountain. In Part 4 of this ‘Preparation Series’ I will describe each company. These companies climb the mountain differently, so pay attention to the details and plan of their itineraries.

Disappointment Cleaver Route

The Disappointment Clever Route presents the most straight-forward route on the mountain, and the most supported. Climbers begin their journey at Paradise (Approximately 5,000 ft.). Historic Paradise Lodge provides an excellent staging spot and place to stay the night before your climb begins. The first day climbers venture approximately 5,000 feet up the Muir Snow Field to Camp Muir – the first camp. Some climbers will rest here for several hours, and then take off to the summit around midnight (start time varies depending on conditions and time of year). Other climbers will set another camp higher on the mountain, typically Ingraham Flats, to reduce the summit day push.

Regardless, you will ascend the Ingraham Glacier to Disappointment Cleaver – a rocky outcrop that extends to approximately 12,500 feet, and then navigate crevasses and steep snow slopes before reaching the summit. The route presents a challenging, but manageable, climb. I recommend this route for first-time and novice climbers, though expert climbers will appreciate its rugged terrain and sweeping glacier views. The DC route provides structures, shelter and outhouse, available on a first-come, first-serve basis. The guide services also provide shelter for sleeping and meals. No other routes on the mountain allow for structures, so all gear, including tents, must be hauled in and out.

Emmons-Winthrop Route

Known for its vast glaciers and vistas, this route starts at White River Campground and . Climbers trek across the Emmons Glacier, tackling icefalls and seracs as they ascend. The Emmons-Winthrop route, less crowded than the Disappointment Cleaver route, provides a more secluded experience.

Kautz Glacier Route

This challenging route begins at Paradise and traverses the Kautz Glacier. Climbers navigate steep ice, snowfields, and crevasses, often requiring technical ice climbing skills. The Kautz Glacier route offers a thrilling adventure for experienced mountaineers seeking a less crowded path. The Kautz, for more experienced mountaineers, provides an excellent addition to one’s climbing resume – especially those looking to step up to mountains like Denali and Aconcagua.

Liberty Ridge

For the truly adventurous, Liberty Ridge presents one of the most demanding and rewarding routes on Mount Rainier. Starting at White River Campground, climbers ascend steep ice and rock faces, including the infamous "Black Pyramid." This route only applies to highly skilled, experienced climbers.

Fuhrer Finger

Beginning at the Nisqually Glacier, this route takes climbers up the Fuhrer Finger, a prominent rock and ice formation. The ascent, known for its steepness and avalanche danger, makes it suitable for only experienced climbers with a taste for adrenaline. Experienced mountaineers with excellent skiing skills often ski the descent in the spring.

Sunset Ridge

This route offers a different perspective on Mount Rainier. Climbers begin at White River Campground and ascend the Sunset Ridge on the mountain's west side. The lightly traveled route provides spectacular sunset views from high-altitude campsites.

As stated, consult with experienced climbers or a professional guide service when choosing to climb Mt. Rainier and a specific route. To achieve success on Rainier safely, climbers must prepare themselves with proper equipment, training, and knowledge of glacier travel and avalanche safety. Weather conditions on the mountain can change rapidly, so climbers must plan to adjust their plans accordingly. Enjoy your Mt. Rainier climbing journey. Related Articles: Preparing to Climb Mt. Rainier in 2025: An Essential Guide - Part I Preparing to Climb Mt. Rainier in 2025: An Essential Guide Part 2 - Gear

This article first appeared on Outdoors on SI and was syndicated with permission.

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