Endurance athlete and elite mountaineer, Tyler Andrews, 35, arrived at the Mount Everest Base Camp months ago with a singular goal – breaking the speed record to the top of the world from the mountain’s south side. Andrews was denied on two attempts, and it now appears that he has aborted his third attempt at the speed record. Simply attempting to climb to the summit of Everest three times in one season is an incredible accomplishment.
Andrews climbs alone and typically without supplemental oxygen, though with support from his longtime training partner, Chris Fisher, who provided support in the treacherous Icefall and on portions of the descent. Trusted Dawa Stephen Sherpa from Asian Trekking handled logistics. Tyler has fought crowds, extreme high winds, and equipment failure during his attempts on Everest’s southern route.
ExplorersWeb reported that his third attempt began yesterday just after 9:00 p.m. Nepal time. As planned, Fisher assisted Andrews through the Icefall, past Camp 1, and to Camp 2 (22,113 feet). His InReach device and support team on the mountain reported that Andrews moved past 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) around noon today.
He noted through his device, “All well in the mountains,” which implied a speed record to 29,029 feet was within reach. But after 17 straight hours of climbing without supplemental oxygen and passing the critical Balcony at 27,560 feet, Andrews decided to turn around.
I just heard from a member of Andrews’ team that the climber is currently pushing back to Everest Base Camp. He was unsure why he had decided to abandon his third attempt at the record. Andrews was chasing the speed record set in 1998 by Kaji Sherpa, who climbed from Base Camp to the summit in 20 hours and 24 minutes.
Kaji Sherpa used supplemental oxygen on his descent, which, in Andrews' opinion, did not marginalize the record. “In my opinion, if you get to the top, you get to the top. I don’t mind how you go down. However, I understand people may have different criteria.”
Andrews, 35, owns over 70 Fastest Known Time (“FKT”) endeavors in his epic adventure career. Last year, he broke the FKT on the 8th highest mountain in the world – Manaslu (26,781 feet). He added another speed record last season with an FKT on the Himalayan peak Ama Dablam (22,349 feet). Andrews also holds the speed records on Kilimanjaro, Mera Peak, Aconcagua, and several other peaks.
“I'm motivated by the aesthetic beauty of being in the mountains and competing on the biggest stage. It's been a multi-year progression from smaller peaks to the highest mountains in the Himalaya and Pakistan. Everest, at 29,029 feet, is the obvious culmination.” - Tyler Andrews
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