A weather window arrived in the Himalayas as expected. The Jetstream has moved from the tops of the highest mountain in the world, as it mysteriously does annually, allowing mountaineers a short period to venture into the death zone above 26,000 and to the summits of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks. By early June, the monsoon season will begin, ushering the Jetstream back to the Himalaya, rendering these mountains largely unclimbable until next fall when a similar phenomenon occurs.
Climbing expeditions on Mount Everest (29,029 feet) are prepared for this opportunity, and several summits have recently occurred. According to ExplorersWeb, at least 35 summits have occurred this early season on the world’s highest peak, with many more expected soon.
Seven Summit Treks reported that nine Chinese nationals, one Japanese climber, and twelve supporting Sherpas reached Everest’s summit. An Alpomania team led by Valentyn Sypavin of 8K Expeditions also reached the summit. The team included five fellow Ukrainians, Sherpa guides, and elite climber Sanu Sherpa. On Lhotse, Sona Sherpa and Dawa Chhiring Sherpa of 14 Peaks Expedition successfully led two Russian women to the summit.
The route to the top of Everest will soon get crowded, as several expeditions are on the upper mountain waiting to launch their final summit bids. Guide companies Seven Summit Treks and 14 Peaks Expedition have over 100 climbers and over 100 Sherpa high-altitude supporters ready to move up the mountain. 8K Expeditions, working with over 50 clients and support Sherpas, are also prepared to go.
Unfortunately, there have been two deaths reported on Everest. Subrata Ghosh, a 45-year-old from West Bengal, India, summited Everest around 2:00 p.m. on May 15. On the descent, Ghosh began to suffer from exhaustion and high-altitude sickness. He died below the difficult Hillary on the descent, according to The Himalayan Times.
Before the death of Ghosh, Philipp Santiago II, 45, from the same expedition, died at Camp 4 (High Camp, approximately 26,000 feet) on May 14 before launching his summit attempt. It was also reported that two Sherpas died after being transported to a hospital. Both Sherpas suffered from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) while at Everest Base Camp (EBC), approximately 17,600 feet.
Some expeditions include the Everest/ Lhotse doubleheader, where climbers attempt both mountains during the same push, including Madison Mountaineering and 8K Expeditions. Lakpa Sherpa of 8K Expeditions reported that Sanu Sherpa, Valentyn Sypavin, Viacheslav Kryvosheia, Nina Aleksieieva, Iurii Kostiukevych, Marharyta Diachenko, Lakpa Ongjuk Sherpa, Ming Temba Sherpa, and Dawa Tenzi Sherpa summited Lhotse after summiting Everest.
The Madison Mountaineering Everest/ Lhotse is preparing to launch their Everest summit bid in the coming days, followed by a Lhotse summit attempt. Both mountains are packed with eager climbers taking their shot during this weather window.
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