The Khumbu Icefall is Open on Mt. Everest

Originally posted on Men's Journal | By John Waechter | Last updated 4/23/24

The Icefall is Open

THE KHUMBU ICEFALL. The iconic, always-shifting, treacherous Khumbu Icefall has finally opened on Mt. Everest. This first section of climbing from the Southeast Ridge Base Camp was difficult to navigate this climbing season. The Icefall presents roughly 2,300 ft. of climbing to Camp I. It is a massive glacier with Ice formations nearing 200 ft. It is flanked by Nuptse, and the west shoulder of Mt. Everest - both of which release unpredictable avalanches into the Icefall with little warning. Setting the route here is technical and dangerous.

THE ICE DOCTORS. This Sherpa Team sets and maintains the route through the Icefall. This year, they encountered extraordinary challenges including a massive serac overhanging the Icefall, and expansive crevasses difficult to cross. Overcoming these obstacles, the Ice Doctors established a functioning route, which has allowed climbing teams to embark on their journey to the upper mountain. What lies above the Khumbu Icefall?

Camp 1 Through Camp 4

CAMP 1 TO CAMP 2. After climbing through the Icefall, climbers arrive at Camp I located around 19,000 ft. This is the base of the Western Cum. From Camp 1, climbers will embark on the heavily crevassed section to Camp 2 at approximately 21,300 ft. Camp 2, or Advanced Basecamp ("ABC") is situated on the upper, broad expanse of the Western Cum, a glacial valley surrounded by towering Himalayan peaks. This portion of climbing is not overly steep, but the increasing altitude slows climbers as they acclimatize to the thinning altitude.

CAMP 2 TO CAMP 3. Camp 3 rises above the Western Cum to the Lhotse face. Climbing from Camp 2 to Camp 3 on Mt. Everest presents hazardous terrain up the steep, icy inclines of the Lhotse Face. Camp 3 is established at around 24,300 ft. As climbers ascend higher into the light atmosphere, the effects of altitude become increasingly pronounced. Consequently, climbers will climb to Camps 1-3 from Basecamp several times to facilitate the acclimatization process. This process will take 1-2 months. When the climbers are fully prepared, they will leave Camp 3 for the final push to the summit via Camp 4 – the South Col.

CAMP 3 TO THE SOUTH COL, TO THE SUMMIT. The route from Camp 3 to Camp 4 traverses the Lhotse Face, followed by crossing the rocky terrain of the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur. The South Col sits on a narrow saddle between Everest and Lhotse at approximately 26,000 ft.

The South Col to the Summit

From Camp 4, climbers push above the Death Zone to the summit. Given the extreme altitude, this is the most technical and treacherous stretch of the climb. They climb to the ‘Balcony’ for a brief rest before rising above to the South Summit of Everest. From here, they encounter the storied ‘Hillary Step’ before a final push to the summit at 29,029 ft.

This article first appeared on Men's Journal and was syndicated with permission.

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