The Perils of the Khumbu Icefall

Originally posted on Men's Journal | By John Waechter | Last updated Apr 19, 2024 3:49 PM ET

The Khumbu Icefall

When climbing from the south side of Mt. Everest, there is no way to avoid the treacherous Khumbu Icefall. It’s perched just above Everest Base Camp, bordered by the west shoulder of Mt. Everest, and the eastern flank of 25,791 ft. Nuptse.

These massive barriers launch huge waves of ice and rock directly into the icy labyrinth of the Icefall. The Icefall is the gatekeeper to the higher altitudes on Mt. Everest, representing the first section of climbing enroute to the top of the world. The Khumbu Icefall is a glacier, a massive field of icy seracs, crevasses, and sky-rocketing ice pinnacles that tower to heights over 200 ft. The glacier is constantly in motion. It flows approximately four feet per day, making it one of the most epic and dangerous sections of the Everest ascent.

The Ice Doctors Set the Route

A group of Sherpas, known as the Ice Doctors, use a series of ladders and ropes to establish the first route through the Icefall each climbing season. They work the Icefall throughout the season assisting teams as they navigate the ever-changing terrain. Climbers move quickly through the Icefall to minimize their time in this hazardous environment. This year, the Ice Doctors had a difficult time fixing the first route through the Icefall, causing delays.

The glacier is typically ‘fixed’ by the first week of April, allowing teams to begin carrying ‘loads’ to Camp I, and beyond. They have tried several routes through the Icefall: The right side close to Nuptse, up the middle of the glacier, and the left side closer to the west shoulder of Everest. The first two options failed.

“First, they tried to go close to Nuptse and encountered a crevasse that couldn’t be crossed,” the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (“SPCC”) told Dawa Steven Sherpa of Asian Trekking. “Then they turned back and tried to go through the middle of the Icefall, but eventually hit a huge, overhanging serac. They were hoping the serac would collapse any day, but so far, it is still in place. Finally, they have now moved to the “old route” to the left of the icefall, near the West Shoulder."

The Route is Fixed

The Sherpa team has selected this route with great trepidation as it was decimated in 2014, causing horrific death and human tragedy. The Ice Doctors will work tirelessly to make the route as safe as possible throughout this climbing season. Garrett Madison, of Madison Mountaineering, is on the south side of Everest currently approaching Everest Base Camp. He recently reported that the route is now open, and teams are working together to ensure passage to the upper mountain. It will be critical to do so, as crowding will remain a key concern as climbers clamor to the summit with a smaller climbing window due to this year’s Icefall delays.

This article first appeared on Men's Journal and was syndicated with permission.

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