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Search for Climbers Suspended

Three climbers that recently went missing on New Zealand’s Mt. Cook are presumed dead after authorities suspended their search. Search crews added drones to the operation, which provided footage of footsteps and miscellaneous gear scattered on the mountain, but no signs of the climbers. Angela Benavides reported in an Article for ExplorersWeb that their families have been notified of the sad news.

Kurt Blair, 56, of Colorado, Carlos Romero, 50, of California, and a third unnamed Canadian climber, most likely fell off the mountain or into a crevasse while climbing the Linda Glacier/Zubriggen Ridge route on Mount Cook – the most popular route on New Zealand’s highest peak.

The team began their expedition at the Plateau hut, and expected to summit Cook last weekend. A rescue operation ensued when they failed to meet their prearranged transportation.

Authorities announced that they have ended their search operation. “However, we remain poised to reactivate our search if we receive fresh information or credible reports of sightings, especially from the climbing community,” they told 1 News.

The American climbers, Blair and Romero, were quite experienced alpinists and professional guides with IFMGA/AMGA credentials. Mount Cook, however, poses serious risks including rockfall, avalanche exposure, and steep icy conditions – a mountaineering challenge for even the most skilled.

Mount Cook in New Zealand

Mount Cook, or Aoraki, New Zealand’s highest peak, rises 12,218 feet. Located in the Southern Alps, the mountain represents a sacred shrine to the Māori. Aoraki translates to “Cloud Piercer,” reflecting its towering presence above the surrounding terrain.

For climbers, Mount Cook offers an exhilarating challenge characterized by technical difficulty, unpredictable weather, and breathtaking alpine scenery. The climbing season typically runs from November to February, with December and January offering the most stable conditions.

Access to the mountain is facilitated by helicopters, which transport climbers to Plateau Hut.

Mount Cook holds a prominent place in mountaineering history. It was first summited in 1894 by New Zealand climbers Tom Fyfe, George Graham, and Jack Clarke. This achievement marked the beginning of New Zealand’s mountaineering legacy, inspiring generations of adventurers, including Sir Edmund Hillary, who trained on Mount Cook before his historic ascent of Mount Everest in 1953. Despite its relatively modest height compared to Himalayan peaks, Mount Cook is renowned for its challenging climbs. Steep ice faces, exposed ridges, and rockfall hazards.

The most popular route, the Linda Glacier Route, begins at Plateau Hut and follows a mix of glacier travel, ice climbing, and ridge scrambling to the summit. It is considered the “standard” route but remains technically demanding.

Climbers must navigate crevasses, seracs, and steep ice slopes, particularly in the summit section known as the Summit Rocks. Other notable routes include the Zurbriggen Ridge, offering a more exposed climb with spectacular views, and the East Ridge, favored by experienced climbers for its technical challenges. This was the route the fallen climbers attempted.


This article first appeared on Outdoors on SI and was syndicated with permission.

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