Planting a bulb garden is a great way to highlight your landscape and gardens, but the key to success lies in how you plant them in the fall. If you’re new to gardening, understanding when to plant bulbs can seem a little tricky, especially if you live in a region with varying temperatures. Timing depends largely on your location and the climate you experience in the fall and winter; of course, in New York where I'm located, it may be snowing by Halloween or 70 degrees in December, but there's still firm logic behind planting in the dormant season. To learn more, we tapped Amy Yarger, the Senior Director of Horticulture at Butterfly Pavilion, a leader in invertebrate research, conservation, and education.
If you live in a cooler climate, such as the northern U.S. or Canada, you’ll need to plant your flower bulbs early enough to give them a cold period. "The chilly temperatures of winter in northern climes trigger chemical cues in the plant so that it can produce flowers at the right time," explains Yarger. This is true for most spring-flowering bulbs, including tulip bulbs, early-blooming daffodils, and grape hyacinth bulbs.
In warmer climates, the process is slightly different because you don’t have the same cold winters that cooler regions experience; however, you can still enjoy beautiful spring blooms by adjusting your planting schedule.
Whether you live in a cooler or warmer climate, keeping an eye on the weather and evening temperatures is one of the best ways to determine when to plant your bulbs.
Nighttime temperatures around 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit are a good indicator that it’s time to plant. When the soil has cooled to around 55 degrees Fahrenheit, the bulbs can start establishing roots before the ground freezes (in cooler areas) or before winter sets in (in warmer areas). Bulbs need time to adjust to their new environment before the weather gets too cold, so don’t wait too long to get them in the ground once temperatures start to drop.
Life happens, and sometimes you might miss the perfect fall planting window. If this happens, there’s still a way to enjoy your bulbs—though it’s not ideal for long-term success. You can chill your bulbs in a refrigerator for 10-14 weeks to mimic the cold period they need. Once they've been chilled, you can plant them in the spring when the soil is workable; however, as Yarger advises, don't store your bulbs with any produce! "Fruit, especially apples, gives off ethylene gas which will interfere with blooming. Consider this pre-chilling time for bulbs a stop-gap measure rather than a long-term solution. It's much better for the long term success of the bulb to plant in the fall."
If you live in a region that doesn’t experience a cold winter, don’t worry—there are bulb varieties that don’t need a lengthy cold period to bloom. Some great options for warm climates include freesias, Peruvian squill, and certain species of alliums. These bulbs are well-suited to climates with warm winters, and will still bring beautiful blooms to your garden.
Yes, especially in cooler climates. Adding a few inches of mulch helps protect your bulbs from extreme temperature fluctuations and protects the moist soil. Spread a layer of mulch, such as shredded leaves or straw, over the garden beds once the ground cools to insulate the bulbs over winter.
Bulbs should be watered after planting to help them settle into the soil. Watering once is important whether you have sandy soil or heavy clay soil. After that, they generally don’t need much water during the fall and winter. Overwatering hardy bulbs can cause rot, especially in spots without well-draining soil.
While additives aren't always necessary, fertile soil helps improve the growth and bloom quality of your flowering bulbs. Organic fertilizer for bulbs is typically rich in phosphorus, which supports root development, and potassium, which aids in overall plant health. Applying fertilizer at planting time gives bulbs an extra boost as they are established in the soil. That said, if your soil is already rich in nutrients, especially organic matter, bulbs will probably be fine without it. Make sure to avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as that mixture will encourage leaf growth over flowers. Always follow the instructions on the fertilizer packaging for best results.
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