Chamonix, France: The Skier's Ultimate Guide

For the most traditional ski resort experience, head to either Brévent-Flégère, right above downtown Chamonix, Megève on the southern end of the valley or the Grands Montets resort above Argentière. All three offer a huge variety of on and off-piste terrain, tasty on-mountain dining options and easy backcountry access.

If you’re looking for a lower-key spot, check out Le Tour, Balme, or Les Houches. These are much smaller resorts without over-the-top development, but all offer excellent skiing and top-notch views.

Finally, if you’re really looking for adventure, hire a guide, head up the Aiguille du Midi and ski the world’s coolest off-piste run: the Vallée Blanche. You’ll get a ride on the Aiguille du Midi tram and get to ski a nearly 10,000-foot descent back to town across one of Europe’s largest glaciers. The Compagnie Des Guides offers daily guided trips anywhere in the valley, plus there are dozens of licensed independent guides that operate out of Cham.

When To Go

Thanks to the high elevation and ample snowpack, the Mont Blanc range is blessed with one of the longest ski seasons in Europe, with resorts typically opening in December and staying open until May. Snow doesn’t often reach the valley floor, so it’s common to upload and download via tram or gondola to access the skiing up high.

If you’re looking for cold powder skiing, your best bet is to plan a trip in February or March and stick to riding north-facing slopes at Grands Montets or Le Tour. You can usually find great powder conditions at Brévent and Flégère immediately after a storm as well.

Chamonix is also an excellent place to enjoy some late-season spring skiing, especially if you want to earn your turns and enjoy the high mountains at their best. Steep skiers flock here in late winter and spring to take advantage of frequent snow storms that plaster the highest peaks with dense, sticky snow—perfect conditions for ski mountaineering.

Where To Stay

The Chamonix Valley is home to hundreds of hotels, hostels, lodges, and rental units. You’ll find everything from four-star luxury hotels to cozy historical bed-and-breakfasts tucked away in neighboring villages like Argentière, Les Praz and Vallorcine.

For the easiest access to restaurants, nightlife, and ski lifts, stay in the center of Chamonix, where just about everything is walkable. It does get busy here, though, so if peace and quiet is more your thing, you might be happier in the surrounding towns.

Some great hotel options are the Lykke Hotel (a 4-star spot with a baller spa, conveniently located right next to the train station), Plan B Hotel (a more budget-friendly option near the Midi and the main bus station), and the Folie Douce (undoubtedly the home of après partying at the base of the Brévent gondola).

Check local listings for rental apartments, bed and breakfasts, and hostels. There’s always something open!

How To Get Around

Like most of the Alps, it’s pretty darn easy to get around the Chamonix area. A major train line runs the length of the valley, connecting all the major ski resorts. It also links into France’s national SNCF network and Switzerland’s SBB network, so you can easily arrive from elsewhere by train.

The valley also has an extensive local bus network that connects all the smaller surrounding villages with Chamonix center and the ski resorts, as well as a major bus station where long-distance buses stop daily.

If traveling internationally, it’s easiest to fly directly to Geneva and take a one-hour airport shuttle to town. There’s no real need to rent a car unless you plan on driving elsewhere. As in most mountain towns, parking can be a bit of a pain!

What To Eat and Drink

Other than the skiing, the best part of Chamonix is undoubtedly the food. Savoyard cuisine is very cheese and cured meat heavy, and you’re in France, so there’s wine everywhere. Local favorites include fondue, raclette, croûte savoyarde (a sort of grilled cheese sandwich), and tartiflette (a potato and cheese casserole). Notice the cheese theme here?

If you're looking for more casual fare, there are plenty of great burger spots, including Poco Loco and the Moo Bar, plus delicious Indian food at Annapurna 2, Nepalese food at Yak, or Mediterranean-style lunch options at ELA. 

Après is, of course, an all-day affair in the Alps, so find the party at spots like the Folie Douce Hotel, the Chambre Neuf bar, Elevation 1904, Micro Brasserie Chamonix or any of the smaller dive bars tucked into the alleys near the Midi tram station.

The valley is also home to dozens of delicious patisseries and cafes. Check out Chez Richard (for everything), L’Al Pain (in Argentière), Le Fournil (for a quick breakfast on the way to the Midi) and Shouka (for a nice post-ski hot chocolate). You’ll find all kinds of different pastries, cakes and other goodies here. For a more in-depth look at the matter, check out the Skier’s Guide to Snacking in Cham.

Non-Skiing Activities

There's plenty to do in Cham on down days, ranging from visiting museums, art galleries, heading to the spa or even hopping on the bus and experiencing nearby cities like Courmayeur, Aosta or Annecy. 

If you're looking to treat your body to a spa day after a few days of hard skiing, many hotels offer spa treatments, or head to the large QC Terme Chamonix spa to spend a whole day exploring various saunas, pools and wellness rooms. There's even a large public recreation center with Olympic-sized pools, plus a climbing gym and much more to explore.

If the weather is truly horrible, and you want a change of scenery for the day, it's about an hour's drive or bus ride through the Mont Blanc Tunnel, where it's well worth exploring the natural beauty and culinary delights of Italy's Aosta Valley. Or, if you want to spend a day strolling through a historical city by a beautiful lake, Annecy, France, is about an hour in the opposite direction. 

What Gear To Bring

The absolutely massive variety of skiing you’ll find in Chamonix can make it tough to figure out what kind of gear you’ll want to bring. Of course, there are dozens of gear and rental shops in the area, so you can always get whatever you need when you’re there. If you’re exclusively resort skiing, a mid-width all-mountain ski will work perfectly here.

On the outerwear front, I’d suggest hardshells plus a variety of layers—temps can fluctuate wildly in these mountains thanks to the massive elevation changes. If you’re heading off-piste, always make sure to ski with a pack and avalanche safety gear!

If you’re planning on doing any ski touring and ski mountaineering, here’s a more in-depth guide on what to bring. You’ll likely be spending a lot of time on glaciers, so always carry a rope and crevasse rescue kit, plus avalanche safety gear and plenty of food and water. Crampons and an ice axe are also necessary for most routes in the area.