How To Take The "Quintessential" Swiss Ski Vacation

72 Lifts, Endless Views

The Jungfrau ski region’s three interconnected areas—Grindelwald-Wengen, Grindelwald-First, and Mürren-Schilthorn, are linked by 72 lifts, including gondolas, chairlifts, funiculars, and magic carpets. I was especially impressed by the engineering of the Eiger Express, a tri-cable gondola that connects Grindelwald with the Eiger Glacier. We don’t have anything like it in the United States, so it’s particularly striking.

Feeling fancy, we booked the VIP gondola, which features a champagne bar and rotating leather chairs. I couldn’t put my camera down during the 15-minute ascent, which climbs 4,531 feet from the Grindelwald Terminal to the Eiger Glacier. The sweeping views of the Eiger’s north face and the valley below are among the most picturesque I’ve ever seen.

From the Eiger Glacier station, we boarded the Jungfrau Railway to reach the summit, Jungfraujoch, also known as the Top of Europe, where we soaked in the views of Mönch peak and the Aletsch Glacier. We also explored the Ice Palace, with tunnels and sculptures carved directly from the glacier.

After that, we skied to the Kleine Scheidegg ski area and descended the famous 2.85-mile Lauberhorn-Grindelwald run, the longest downhill ski course in the World Cup circuit, into the village of Wengen. Skiing past whimsical chalets through Wengen’s snow-covered, car-free streets is a classic must-do Swiss Alps experience.

Freeride Terrain Abounds

The Jungfrau ski pass covers all three major areas, totaling more than 130 miles of marked on-piste terrain. But there’s far more to explore.

In Switzerland—and much of Europe—off-piste skiing begins the moment you leave a marked trail, even just a few feet beyond it. Once you do, you’re entirely responsible for your own safety because there’s no avalanche mitigation.

While many skiers stick to the groomed runs, the Jungfrau region is also renowned for its vast freeride areas, even if the total off-piste mileage isn’t publicly known.

Powder Skiing Is Rare, but the Pistes Are Plentiful

Grindelwald is a world-class ski destination because of its awe-inspiring alpine terrain, well-maintained slopes, high-end accommodations, many upscale culinary experiences, and abundant après-ski options. Private instructors and personalized services are easy to find.

Because the Jungfrau region receives about 130 inches of snow per season, powder days are rare. A study published in the International Journal of Climatology found that snowfall in the Alps has decreased by about 34% over the past century—and by as much as 46% in the Bernese Alps.

Still, the wide, above-treeline, sunny slopes offer plenty of variety for all ability levels. We racked up nearly 18,000 vertical feet skiing top-to-bottom laps across Grindelwald-Wengen (5,591-foot vertical drop), Grindelwald-First (4,751-foot vertical drop), and Mürren-Schilthorn (7,133-foot vertical drop).

'Sledging'—The Full Swiss Experience

Skiing isn’t the only way to enjoy the mountains. Sledging—what Americans call sledding or tobogganing—is enormously popular here. The region boasts more than 30 miles of trails, and I tried three fan favorite routes.

The first was the Grindelwald-First to Faulhorn trail, known as the Big Pintenfritz, Europe’s longest and most scenic sledging run. We hadn’t realized it required a two and a half hour, 1,689-foot climb, but our guide assured us it was the “full Swiss experience.” The views and the guilt-free Snickers bar at the summit made the effort worthwhile.

Watch: Sledging Crash, Grindelwald, Switzerland

Sledging, Grindewald Switzerland (0:23)

Next, we tried night sledging on the Jungfrau Eiger Run. After eating my weight in fondue at Berghaus Alpiglen (and, against Swiss tradition, pairing it with beer), we rode two miles down the illuminated trail to Brandegg and the Wengernalp Railway, which stays open late for sledgers.

My third sledging adventure was a steep, 2,000-foot descent from Grindelwald-First to Schreckfeld and Bort. I had a few dicey bails and crashes, but finished unscathed—and completely amused. Sledging, I realized, is one of the most entertaining ways to experience the Alps.

It Ain't Easy Being Steezy

Style and Ease? Yes. Steeze? Not so much. 

American skiers stand out on Swiss slopes. While both Americans and the Swiss take pride in their skiing, Americans tend to carve longer, arcing turns, whereas the Swiss prefer a precise wiggle. Americans are easy to spot—they favor wider skis, looser-fitting gear, and almost always wear helmets and goggles, while the Swiss, and many other European skiers, seem to prefer sunglasses to goggles and sometimes forego helmets.

“Steeze” isn’t really a thing here. Neither are chatty chairlift conversations. The Swiss generally don’t strike up random small talk with strangers, so your friendly banter might be met with polite but minimal interaction. They’re welcoming, but reserved. 

The Swiss take order and punctuality as seriously as they take watchmaking; there is no room for improvisation. Their culture of seamless rhythm leaves little room for cutting corners. Americans used to a bit of rule-bending or “special treatment” will need to adapt. This applies to everything from checkout times to gondola hours.

Lift Line Lunacy

Despite Switzerland’s trademark efficiency and discipline in nearly every other aspect of life, the ski lift lines are a surprising exception. I’m spoiled by the controlled queues at Alta Ski Area, so the sudden surge and elbows-out scramble to the front in European ski lift lines always takes some adjustment. 

I’m also endlessly surprised by how common smoking still is, even in lift lines, on chairlifts, and at restaurants. There are no designated smoking areas or non-smoking sections, so sitting outside means your raclette is paired with several servings of secondhand smoke.

Cost Considerations

The good news is lift tickets in Switzerland are much more affordable than in the US. The bad news is the US dollar currently exchanges for about 0.80 Swiss francs.

A three-day adult pass for the Jungfrau Ski Region—which includes Grindelwald-Wengen, Grindelwald-First, and Mürren-Schilthorn—costs about $289, roughly the price of a single-day ticket at many major resorts in the American West.

Lodging in Grindelwald ranges widely, but mid- to high-end hotels typically run $300 to $500 or more per night during peak season. Excluding airfare and meals, expect to spend about $800 to $1,000 per person for a three-day ski trip.

We loved our stay at Hotel Fiescherblick in Grindelwald. The staff were warm and accommodating, the meals were fantastic, and the rooms reflected cozy Scandinavian simplicity. The rooftop saltwater hot tub and Finnish panoramic sauna were the perfect way to unwind after long days on the slopes. Its location directly across from the bus stop made getting there and around effortless.

Every ski turn with close-up views of the Eiger felt surreal. Sledging under the stars, skiing through the streets of Wengen, and sipping champagne on the Eiger Express was like a cinematic dream. It’s everything you could want from a ski vacation to Grindelwald. 

Skiing with close-up views of the Eiger, sledging under the stars, skiing through the streets of Wengen, and sipping champagne on the Eiger Express–this is what ski vacation dreams are made of.