The Best Basic Alpine Climbing Kit According To Powder Editors

Footwear: Black Diamond Technician Pro

The question about what to put on your feet for alpine climbing is the center of an age-old debate, and the answer will lie in the specifics of where you are headed. Back in the day, pioneering mountaineers wore nothing more than hobnailed leather boots (hardos!), but these days we're blessed with enough technical footwear options to make a climber go a bit crazy. I'm a fan of the one-and-done approach, meaning I'm usually wearing a single pair of shoes all day, for the approach, the climb, and the descent.

As I mentioned, I'm not particularly interested in climbing anything hard, so approach shoes with sticky rubber soles do the trick for any of the sub-5.5 technical climbing I'm aiming for. My favorite? Black Diamond's new Technician Pro. Back in the day, I was a huge fan of the classic La Sportiva Boulder X (still available), but the new BD shoes just fit me a lot better. These combine the best of both worlds: a running/approach shoe, enough sticky rubber and a slightly pointed toebox to cover the bases from a smooth mountain trail to technical scrambling and easy rock climbing.

If I do set my sights on something with more involved technical climbing, I'll bring lightweight trail running shoes like a Salomon Speedcross and a pair of comfy all-round rock climbing shoes like the La Sportiva Tarantulace. 

Pack: Arc'teryx Alpha SL 30

Just like the footwear conundrum, what to carry on your back and how to carry it might be the second-most thought about part of putting together an alpine climbing kit. Some climbers might opt for a trail running vest, while others might want a traditional large backpack to carry all their gear. Depending on the route, either of those might be a better option, but for the most part, my go-to is a ultralight alpine climbing backpack, and the all-new Arc'teryx Alpha SL 30 knocks it out the park. A close second might the Samaya Ultra 35, reviewed here.

Purpose built for alpine climbing, this extremely simple yet rugged, backpack takes the ultra-minimalist pack ethos to the max, but doesn't skimp (too much) on comfort. Dyneema packs have been all the rage recently, but Arc'teryx decided to go with a new material: ALUULA Graflyte. This uniquely waterproof, non air-permeable, ultralight and extremely durable fabric seems to be the the perfect choice for a pack that will get thrashed by sharp rocks, nasty weather, and strong sunlight.

At 30 liters and a mere 444 grams, the Alpha SL 30 has enough space for anything I'd need to bring on a big day out in the summer, fitting a rack, rope, and extra layers, and might even find a space in the ski pack rotation this winter. When I'm climbing, I usually prefer to have the follower carry the pack, but on bigger days where we both have plenty to carry, I don't mind leading pitches while wearing it. The pack strips down completely to shave weight, or can be modified with extra straps and loops depending on the mission at hand.

Insulation: Stellar Equipment Ultralight Down Hood 2.0

It might be 85 degrees on the valley floor, but temperatures will drop quickly once you're up high in the mountains, even in the summer. Besides, things can change in an instant in the high peaks, so being prepared with an emergency puffy jacket (also extremely helpful if you need to unexpectedly spend the night somewhere) is paramount. 

The way I use and carry a puffy jacket in the summer is no different than what I do when backcountry skiing in the winter. Most of the time, the jacket stays stuffed in the bottom of my pack, but when it does come out, it needs to be extremely warm. Stellar Equipment's Ultralight Down Hood 2.0 is perhaps the best one I've found to date, perfectly balancing packability, low weight, and extreme warmth the way only down can. 

Apparel: Outdoor Research Astroman Air Sun Hoodie & Mountain Hardwear Kor Hybrid Jacket

My alpine climbing apparel system also largely depends on the weather forecast. I wouldn't recommend going climbing in the rain, so I don't usually carry wet-weather gear, but temperature and wind can still play a huge role in how I dress in the mountains in summer. If it's super hot, I'll be wearing running shorts and a breathable sun hoodie like the Outdoor Research Astroman Air. If it's a bit chillier, then I'll be rocking long pants and a slightly warmer and more weatherproof top like the Mountain Hardwear Kor Hybrid Jacket. 

Adaptability is key here, especially on routes like the Grand Teton's Exum Ridge, or scrambling around in the Cascades, where it can super hot down low, but close to freezing on the summits. 

Accessories: Biolite Headlamp + Lifestraw Water Filter

One thing that doesn't get talked about enough is the fact that you'll be spending a lot of time moving in the dark on any alpine day. Afternoon thunderstorms are a real risk, and the best way to avoid them is by getting a really early alpine start. That requires a reliable and bright headlamp to illuminate the way, and I've been trusting the Biolite Headlamp 800 Pro for both summer and winter alpine escapades. This heavy duty headlamp features a built-in rechargeable battery, an extremely bright 800 lumens of focused light, and a bounce-free strap that attaches well to a climbing helmet. 

Another thing I like to always bring along is a light-duty water filter like the Lifestraw Peak Squeeze, essentially a trail running flask with a built-in filter. Drinking directly from snowmelt-fed streams in the high alpine still carries a risk of ingesting dirty water, so I always try to filter whatever I drink. There's nothing worse than getting violently ill in the mountains, trust me.  

Climbing Hardware: Harness, Rope, Rack, and Helmet

Finally, the good stuff: climbing hardware. The actual hardware you carry will greatly depend on the route you are attempting, your comfort and skill level in technical terrain, and any considerations like ice or snow you might encounter. Here in the Tetons, I'm generally bringing a lightweight 60-meter single dry rope, a small rack of cams, nuts, and slings, and wearing a climbing helmet and harness in any technical terrain. Elsewhere, like in the snowier Cascades, High Sierra, or the Alps, I might add in some strap-on crampons and an ultralight ice axe for added security.

My go-to cord for alpine climbing these days is the Edelrid Siskin Eco 8.6mm dry rope. At 48g/m, this is the lightest single rope on the market right now, making it much nicer to carry on long days. Since I'm not a rock guide and I actually spend most of my summer on my mountain bike, the rope doesn't see a ton of use, so I'm not particularly worried about longevity. If you alpine climb more frequently than 10 times a summer, a heavier-duty rope might be a better option.

Similarly, while any rock harness will do in the summer, I'm a fan of a lighter-weight alpine climbing-specific harness to shave some weight. I don't anticipate taking huge whippers or spending a lot of time in a hanging belay on this, so I'm willing to give up some padding in the name of shaving grams. My choice? The 255-gram Blue Ice Halo Harness, which balances comfort and necessary features like gear loops with a low profile and lack of weight.

Rockfall is perhaps the biggest threat I'm facing while alpine climbing, especially with crowded routes, melting permafrost, and chossy rock in remote places. To protect my noggin, I'm wearing a climbing helmet the second I enter any sort of technical terrain or am faced with overhead hazard. There's loads of good rock helmets out there, but Black Diamond's Vision MIPS bridges the gap between ski mountaineering and rock use. One less helmet in the garage saves me some space. Besides, it weighs next to nothing and fits my oddly large head very comfortably.

I won't go into specifics on cams, carabiners, or other hardware, but I'd recommend taking a similar approach as I have with the other bits and figure out the lightest version of whatever you might be looking for to piece together a rack that works for you without working against you on the approach and descent.