30 Years After His Death At Maverick's, Remembering Mark Foo

The Thin Red Line

The story of his passing was not about someone who was out of their element or over their head. Mark Foo was no neophyte. On the contrary, he was a legendary big-wave surfer, known for his fearlessness and skill in tackling some of the most monstrous swells nature could muster. He was also well-loved for his humor and respected for his business acumen.

Foo knew when he arrived on the day of the big swell that his trip from Hawaii had possibly left him a little sleep-deprived, and a little anxious about the swell. Despite the risks, Foo, along with the tight family of big wave riders, ventured out that day. Foo’s oft-repeated quote “To get the ultimate thrill, you have to be willing to pay the ultimate price,” became his destiny. Sometime during his session, he took a rare, wipeout, disappearing into the churning chaos of the ocean’s fury. Foo’s body was found lifeless hours later.

His passing sent shockwaves through the surfing community, highlighting the inherent dangers faced by those who push the boundaries of the sport.

“Mark was one of those guys that had done everything in big wave riding,” Peter Mel told me not long after the tragedy. “I couldn’t believe it when I heard it. I mean, Mark Foo was invincible. “

The loss of such a talented and revered figure was a stark reminder of the razor-thin line between triumph and tragedy in the world of big-wave surfing. In the aftermath of Foo’s death, the surfing world mourned the loss of a pioneer, yet his legacy endured. His fearlessness, passion, and unwavering dedication to the sport inspired many to chase their dreams and tackle the untamed waves, albeit with a newfound respect for the ocean’s power. Foo’s tragic passing also prompted a reevaluation of safety measures in big-wave surfing. It underscored the importance of better safety protocols, equipment, and awareness of the risks involved in navigating big waves.

A Shocking Wake-up Call

It was a wake-up call,” noted XXL champion Shane Dorian, one of Foo’s comrades on the big wave circuit. If it could happen to Mark it could happen to anyone.”

XXL Big Wave winner Mike Parsons was so devastated by the loss of his friend he rushed to the nearest pay phone and called his father. He broke down when he had to speak about what had happened.

“I’ll never forget that day being out with Mark. It still makes me choke up thinking about it,” remembers friend and rival Ken Bradshaw. “Doing what you love, that’s what we live for. That’s what Mark will be known for – forever.”

“Not a day goes by that someone doesn’t mention a memory they had with Mark,” says SharLyn Foo.

“He will always be my friend in my heart,” says Bobby Owens who spent the formative years of professional surfing building their reputations together. “There was nobody quite like Mark.”

“He will always be part of our big wave fraternity,” says Michael Willis another character in big wave posse who surfed with Foo.

“Mark lived every minute of his life to the fullest,” noted Mark Healy, one more ultra-waterman I spoke to about Mark’s passing. Healy summed up Foo’s legacy with a simple sentence: ”No one was happier to be where he was, doing what he was doing.”

Every Christmas season Foo is remembered by his big wave clan – those who continue to test their mettle, embracing both the thrill and the responsibility that come with chasing the ultimate swells.

Jim Kempton spent many days surfing smaller Sunset Beach with Mark. And many more hours poring over shots of him sent to SURFER magazine. His favorite advice from Mark summed up Mark’s character – determination, knowledge, talent, passion, and drive: “You may be in the right spot in the lineup but you will get picked off if you just sit there.”