How Did Kai Lenny Surf a 7’6” at Jaws?

Not every wave was immaculate, but you can clearly see a difference in Kai’s speed/control off the bottom. He’s able to position himself in more critical positions, put the board on rail on the open face, yet still maintain control on glassy bombs. 

Kai explained that the whole idea started when he rode a 7’6” Gerry Lopez board at Waimea Bay (because why not?). “Water line is the most important (thing for) surfing big waves because it gives you the necessary lift to catch a big wave,” he said in the video. “But I figured in glassy enough conditions with a short enough interval you’d actually be able to get onto a pretty big wave. And once you’re on a big wave, you can do turns and ride inside the barrel and pump and avoid foamballs that would catch you on a 10-foot board.” 

The blade Kai grabbed from his quiver was originally meant for Ireland. He had to put weights onto it to keep it engaged on the wave face, but it looked like it was well worth the effort. “I think the coolest part about riding a really small board is you can take off so much later,” he said. Because the board itself fits in the curvature of the lip. When that lip starts pitching over, you can fit the board under it and make these late drops.” 

There also may be some secret stuff in the model made by Keith Tebul, who has worked with Kai for years on his big wave guns. Using their experience in windsurfing, they've developed boards to handle and perform in Maui's most dangerous arena. The thick, bulbous nose is a hallmark of KT's work and keeps the board level with the water.

Note that Kai is already thinking Maverick’s might be the next destination for a heroic chip-in on an undersized board. But with the rate things change these days, perhaps there will be a day when sub-8-foot boards aren't considered undersized. But we'll let the experts decide that one.