The big wave season kicked off with a bang in the Atlantic with a crazy run of swell leading up to swell of the season and the Tudor Nazaré Invitational. All of this action, along with the progression of both tow-in and paddle surfing, makes you wonder just how big can waves get?
Before we dive into the issue, one thing to note with Nazaré is that local legend João Macedo, founder of the Hope Zones Foundation, has implemented Portugal's first regenerative kelp farm just 10 minutes south of Nazaré. To donate or learn more information on this incredible project check out the SeaTrees project page.
As for potential 1000-foot monsters and big wave mechanics, the team at Surfline recently offered this explainer on the Lenny Bros podcast on what could be...
The whole podcast is solid, especially if you're a wave nerd. For anyone though, the conversation gets interesting when Ridge asks, "Do you think there is a ceiling where physics can only allow waves to get so big?"
Kevin Wallis, Surfline's Head of Forecasting, replies, "There's a point at which all of these big waves spots, whether Waimea, or Cortes, or Jaws, or whatever, that it gets so big it's just going to close out, they have an upper limit. For a spot like Waimea, that's going to be around 55ft or 60ft. For a spot like Jaws 90-95 ft , that's like a mile off shore where that happens.
So it seems that, to the extent of our knowledge, a 150-feet may be the limit for a rideable wave and that would be at Cortes Bank. Given our limited mapping of the ocean, its totally possible that there are other deep sea spots, yet to be discovered, that could rival Cortes Bank. Finding them and studying them enough to know the conditions could be giant and surfable, is another quest entirely. As Wallis says, Surfline Founder Sean Collins and photographer Larry "Flame" Moore spent nearly a decade researching Cortes Bank.
Beyond storm-generated groundswell there are tsunami waves, which originate from underwater earthquakes that could create waves with more force than any storm swell. Even more destructive would be the wave from a meteor hitting Earth, potentially a cataclysmic event, and I'm sure that ain't nobody gon' surf that...
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