Scraps, haole slaps, and the like were once a common occurrence on the North Shore of Oahu. You step out of line, you might catch a fade.
While things have somewhat settled on the Seven Mile Miracle, when it comes to surf-related violence, there are still incidents. And respect while visiting the islands – in the ocean and out – is mandatory. Wait your turn in the lineup, remove your slippers before entering a home, pack your trash, properly greet all aunties and uncles, etc.
But back in the day, even the top surfers got wrapped up in the frequent fights. Like Jamie O’Brien, one of the best surfers ever at Pipeline and just about as local as they come. Below, JOB describes an incident in which a dispute came to blows.
The story comes from decades ago, when JOB was around 22 or 23. He was surfing Pipe when he noticed a bodysurfer dropping in on people – Tamayo Perry (RIP), John John Florence, and then Jamie himself. So, he approached him in the water.
That guy turned out to be cool. “He was apologetic,” Jamie recounted. But then, another bodysurfer came up to him, notably not apologetic. Per JOB:
“He was like, ‘You wanna go right now? Where you from’”
Then, it went to the beach. Jamie continued:
“As I got to the beach, Kala Alexander [of Wolfpak fame] came up to me, and he was like, ‘I got your back.’ The guy was like just as tall as me, and I was all out of shape. He’s got like a 12-pack, and he starts bouncing. This guy was like a boxer. He was so in shape…I got the guy to the ground, and I ended up on top of him, and I was just thursting him, brah. Then they were like, ‘alright stop!’ I was kicking sand in his face.”
The whole thing was captured in the 2007 documentary, The Seven Mile Miracle. And check out the full chat between JOB and Mason Ho below:
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