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Stop Making These 8 Common Beginner Surfer Mistakes
Sterling Lorence Photo/Getty Images

Surfing has one of the longest progression paths of any hobby. It is hyper-nuanced, and it's very common for beginners to become frustrated and wonder if they should give up.

Before you even enter the water for the first time, there are a dozen different questions to navigate: Which board do you need? Is a wetsuit required? Where is a good, beginner-friendly surf spot? When you're just learning to surf, there are so many issues to consider, and so many areas where it's easy to get tripped up.

Once you get into the water, learning the skills and progressing is the next challenge. If you're just starting out, or if you feel like you're stuck in the white water, we've put together a list of some of the most common beginner mistakes surfers make—and what you should be doing instead.

1. Your board is too short.

Choosing a board that's too short is one of the most common mistakes beginning surfers make. That foam board you've been learning on is stable for a reason: it's big, floaty and designed to catch waves. Thinking you can go from this to the latest Pyzel super-whip is a no-no. It will be much better for your surfing to go with a mini Mal or a log. These will do wonders for your surfing progression because they have enough volume to help you catch waves.

Be careful of progressing to something like a mid-length (which is different from a mini Mal). A common misconception is that a mid will perform the same as a Mal or log, but that is not the case. Some mids, especially twin pins, are better suited for larger waves or pointbreaks, which isn't where you want to be yet.

Once you've spent enough time on a longer board, consider where you want your surfing to go. If it's a shortboard, try a groveler or fish. Always be aware of the types of waves you're surfing, as well, as this will dictate which board you should move to next.

2. You're not paddling efficiently.

If you're paddling and not catching waves, odds are it's not the wave's fault. (Sorry to break this to you.)

Most likely, you're not paddling efficiently. You're expending a lot of energy, but your rhythm is off and you're going nowhere. But don't worry, there's an easy fix that will make paddling feel smooth and purposeful.

Lie flat on your board and reach long in front of the nose. As you start paddling, pull your biceps close to your rails. Paddle long, get those arms deep and keep them right to the board. As a wave approaches, start paddling. When you think the wave has taken you, give it three more paddle strokes. This technique should help you catch more waves.

3. You're trying to progress too soon.

There is nothing to stop you catching unbroken waves—but it takes time to learn to get to your feet comfortably, understand the nuances of your board and learn to predict the timing and power of the waves. If you take the necessary time, it will make you feel more comfortable in the line-up. Take your time before moving out of the white water. The ocean isn't going anywhere, but if you don't know the intricacies of your board, you ditch it and it hits someone, that's a big problem. Relax, don't rush.

4. You're sitting in the wrong spot.

Once you've mastered the white water, it's time to progress to surfing unbroken waves. You paddle out and you see everyone catching waves—except for you. So what's the problem?

Odds are, you're sitting in the wrong spot. For the most part, you want to be on the peak of the wave, or where the wave breaks first. But when you're just learning to surf, it's best to move to the shoulder of the wave and take waves no one else is on.

How can you tell where the shoulder of the wave is? Watch the wave break before paddling out. You can see where the crowds are. Try to avoid them, paddling out in peace and seeking your own peak, or shoulder, all to yourself. Then, once you've got a bit of experience under your belt, you can move toward the peak and start taking off with the rest of them.

5. Your pop-up is too slow.

This mistake is very common. The pop-up, or the process of getting to your feet, should be one smooth motion. The boards you've been learning on are incredibly forgiving, designed to act as boats and floating platforms to get you to your feet as soon as possible. But these boards don't teach the urgency needed to get to your feet. If you're stalling on the take-off, practice on land and watch local surfers. Focus especially on where their feet land and how they generate momentum. Keep in mind: You will not get it right away; this will take years of training.

6. You don't know surf etiquette.

Proper surfing etiquette is critical when learning the sport. If you just paddle for everything and get in everyone's way, you're going to get called out. You're also going to get a bad reputation.

Before paddling, look both ways. If someone is already on the wave, pull back and let them go. Whoever takes off closest to the peak has right of way, so be mindful of that. Don't drop in, and don't inadvertently back-paddle or snake. Take your time, and the waves will eventually come.

7. You're not looking forward.

This is another very common mistake. It may feel unnatural at first, but try to focus on looking in the direction you're surfing, rather than down at your feet.

Generally, your body—and your board—will go in the direction you're looking, and your torso will twist with it. If you're looking down, guess where you're heading? While learning, try to get this down as soon as possible. Hold your leading arm out in front of you and look to your fingertips, then look to the beach. Eventually, you will be looking down the line of an unbroken wave. But these fundamentals have to be dialed in first.

8. You don't know your limits.

If in doubt, don't paddle out. Try to stick to smaller waves; otherwise, you will find yourself in conditions you're not ready to handle yet. This could lead to a dangerous scenario for you, as well as for the person who is trying to rescue you. If the surf is beyond your limits, stick to the white water, practice your pop-up and have a good time goofing around.

This article first appeared on SURFER and was syndicated with permission.

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