Surfing Nazaré: When To Go and What To Expect

Nazaré Wave Breakdown

Big Moma is best left to the tow-in crew who surf it regularly. There are a number of different surfers who travel to Nazaré to surf "the biggest wave in the world," but they all gather around the town's harbor. If you're heading there for that reason, you know what to expect already. Just make sure you're checking in with a safety team and not tackling it solo.

The lefts at Nazaré are what you're really looking for, which lead away from the headland. The rights are for the biggest waves only and are rarely surfed because if you fall, you're going to get ping-ponged around the "death zone," aka the rocks right in front of the wave. For other traveling surfers, the town's Praia do Norte can be a delight. Big, barreling waves reel off up that coastline, and again, it's the lefts you want to aim for.

Some of these waves are a result of swell bouncing back toward Nazaré's coastline, courtesy of the big underwater canyon that runs for miles offshore. This can create a triangle effect, making for some epic shorebreak conditions. The beach break works just off the shoreline. Swell direction is ok from the west but likes a hint of north in it to really get the wave firing. It's a wave that will test the best barrel riders' ability. It's fast, heavy and hollow.

One thing to be aware of is the current and rip tides around Praia do Norte. The beach has a steep gradient that has caught many a beach-goer off guard and whipped out to sea in a moment's notice. This can be a surfer's best friend or worst possible scenario—it can be an easy enough paddle out, but if you're caught by that current, you could end up way down the beach away from any form of civilization.

Be prepared to wear out your shoulders on the paddle. If you get caught inside, point your board to shore, head in and do the run around. Otherwise, you'll be caught under the lip of an approaching juggernaut or get in the way of some barrel hound on the wave of their life.

When To Surf Nazaré

The swell season is the same as all other spots in the northern hemisphere, from late September through to March. However, the biggest waves are surfed in the height of winter, from November to January. It's worth going to watch the giant waves break off the shore and wait for a smaller day to tackle the beach break.

Where To Stay

There are many spots in Nazaré's town center to shack up during a swell. But if you want a bit more variety in your surf trip, book a place in Peniche and then travel up to Nazaré to watch the biggest swells. Or if Peniche feels a bit crowded, head to Nazaré's Praia do Norte on a smaller day and pick off any empty peaks along the beach.

What To Do in Nazaré

If the waves aren't firing, Nazaré's a stunning coastal town that feels both old country Europe with elements of modernity flecked throughout. The town is cobblestone with whitewashed houses and coral, terracotta roofs. Before you get to the trail to the headland, there's the Municipal Market of Nazaré, with fresh produce on offer and an opportunity to interact with the locals.

You can also hire a guide to take you around the big wave spots on small days to get a feel for it. Head into the fort for a bit of big wave trivia, with surfboards that were used to surf some of the gigantic waves there, and a write-up and information about the history of the surf spot.