Is there a single ride that's seared in your synapses? One wave to rule them all? An epic barrel perhaps? A solitary score at sunset? Or maybe that magic moment with your family all racing shoreward together? Whatever the case, as surfers we all have those special waves that will stay with us forever ... and they're always fun to talk about.
Kicking off summer on the good foot, we teamed up with our friends at OluKai to illustrate just how broad the concept of the ride of your life can reach. From big-wave winners like Luke Shepardson and Landon McNamara, to the timeless grace of Kelis Kaleopa‘a and Keani Canullo, to next-gen heroes like Maddix Alotis and Kaiwi Berry, and bonafide surf surfs like Zeke Lau, Eala Stewart, their answers are as diverse as their respective approaches in the water. Here's what their ohana had to say:
The wave of my life happened seven years ago on my birthday. It was at Cloudbreak and we pulled up on the boat in the morning and it was big and windy and a little ominous. The sky was gray and dark, and we watched for a couple hours while a few people tried to paddle with no success. Then the wind died down. Once I got to the lineup I got my wave in about 10 minutes. I air-dropped into it and saw the wall lined up to the end of the reef and knew I had to try to go as fast as possible down the line. I was on an 8’8” and it felt like I was on a shortboard. I bottom-turned up into the barrel and went through one section and it spit me out into another longer section. I almost made it but the foam ball got me right at the end. So, it went from the best ride ever to one of the best beatings ever. I took the next three waves on the head before I got picked up by the ski. My leash plug ripped out of my board, so it was one-and-done for me that day. I need to make it back for another swell like that to get redemption and make one.
"It went from the best ride ever to one of the best beatings ever."
If I could remember the ride of my life, it would actually be a whole session with my family. I’ve been so blessed to travel all over the world, surf amazing waves with amazing people, but nothing compares to home. Right after the pandemic hit, I got to share an empty lineup at Queens with just my mom, dad, grandma, and grandpa. I’ll never forget that day. It was such an amazing full circle moment to be in our zone with my grandparents, parents, and me. I am who I am because of them raising and rooting me here in these special waters of Waikiki, so I just never take that moment for granted because you never know when it’ll be your last surf all together.
"I got to share an empty lineup at Queens with just my mom, dad, grandma, and grandpa. I’ll never forget that day."
The absolute wave of my life would have to be my winning wave at The Eddie. No question. What that wave represents in my life—it was a moment where one of those main dreams you have in life actually comes through to reality. It was surreal. The wave itself was amazing, but the entire scene of that day was something I’ve never experienced before. That ride was important, but what it represented was so much greater than the few seconds on the board.
"That ride ... was so much greater than the few seconds on the board."
It’s so hard to pick one wave exactly, but the ride of my life would probably have to have been at Jaws about three years ago. I was 17 and it was the first time I ever surfed out there. I paddled into the lineup and within 30 minutes, I chipped into this perfect barrel. Somehow, I got tubed on my very first wave at Jaws. That was it for me. That first paddle-wave got me into wanting to really push it as hard as I can. That wave was a game-changer. It might not have been the biggest wave I’ve ever surfed, or even the craziest barrel, but it’s the one that still stands out in my head, and I think it always will.
"Somehow, I got tubed on my very first wave at Jaws."
I don’t necessarily know if I have a ‘wave of my life,’ but I did have a pretty impactful day on a recent trip to Noosa, Australia. We woke up at 4:30 am and headed to a place called Double Island, a beautiful stretch of beach with so many perfect waves and basically had the best day of our trip. We surfed for 6 hours straight with 10 of our best friends, just us in glassy, perfect, a-frame waves. I couldn’t help but just smile and laugh the entire time. During that session I realized how much I truly love surfing and how moments like this are exactly why I fell in love with surfing in the first place. So, this trip and that day, specifically, re-sparked that genuine love I have for the ocean. It was one of those moments where you realize this is what it’s all about.
"Moments like this are exactly why I fell in love with surfing."
I just came back from the South Pacific, and it was honestly such an impactful trip on my life. There’s a certain wave down there that’s always been my dream. I have so many memories as a young kid, visualizing surfing this wave, what it would feel like to experience it, and to now be living it—it felt like a real full-circle moment for me. So, to me, the ride of my life isn’t necessarily the perfect conditions, location, or the perfect size—it’s really more of a feeling. It’s a dream realized, like I am meant to be here experiencing this moment right now. Like a dream manifested. Those waves are the most impactful for me. I had a session a couple weeks ago, just me and a few of the local boys out there, and I got this wave that even though I have honestly had bigger, better barrels in my life, for whatever reason, this wave really felt like the most powerful, beautiful ride of my life. Not a care in the world about documenting it, I was just tapped into the mana and feeling the power of the ocean coursing through my body. That wave left an imprint on my soul.
"The ride of my life isn’t necessarily the perfect conditions, location, or the perfect size—it’s really more of a feeling."
As a professional surfer, it’s always been about chasing that next huge barrel or big swell. And I’m fortunate to have more of those types of waves than I can remember. But for me, as a new dad, I’d have to say the wave that really stands out to me was my first wave with my daughter. It was something I’ll never forget; just sharing that first wave with her really made an impact on me. I tried to burn that ride into my memory so I can never forget it.
"The wave that really stands out to me was my first wave with my daughter."
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