Climbing Mt. Everest from Tibet's North Side - The Road Less Traveled

Originally posted on Outdoors on SI | By John Waechter | Last updated Dec 14, 2024 8:00 AM ET

Main Routes on Mt. Everest

While there are many discovered and named climbing routes on Everest, two routes are most commonly climbed: The South Col route starting from Nepal, and the Northeast Ridge Standard, or The North Col route, starting from Tibet. Mt. Everest was first summited by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953 via The South Col route. Since their historic accomplishment, their path has been the most traveled.

This is mainly due to the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1950, at which time they shuttered access to Mt. Everest, via Tibet, to all foreigners until 1980. Since then, attaining permits to the Northeast Ridge has been a challenge, resulting in far fewer climbs through Tibet's gates. The outbreak of the COVID-19 virus in 2020 provided another reason for the Chinese to restrict access to outsiders seeking access from the north. The north side opened this year for the first time since 2019, making both routes open to expeditions from around the world.

The Everest Route 'Less Traveled'

ACCESS TO THE NORTH FACE. Mt. Everest's North Face has a rich and colorful history. Attempts on Mt. Everest from the north side began in the 1920's by British teams first led by George Mallory, but to no avail. Most significant was Mallory's 1924 British Expedition with Andrew “Sandy” Irvine. Mallory and Irvine died on this historic climb, and their actual achievement remains mountaineering's most intriguing mystery.

George Mallory’s body was found in 1999 below Mt. Everest's summit by an American team led by Eric Simonson of . No one knows if Mallory and Irvine died while ascending to the summit, or while descending after successfully summiting Mt. Everest. Climbers are still searching for Mallory's missing camera that could unlock the century-old mystery.

Legendary Climber Records First American North Face Summit

PHIL ERSHLER. Elite climber Phil Ershler made the historic first American ascent of Mt. Everest's North Face on October 20, 1984. On that day, Phil and John Roskelley left high camp very late in the season and climbed through the Yellow Band where Roskelley turned back. Phil continued solo on steep terrain to the top, where his only bottle of oxygen ran out. He returned safely and made history on Mt. Everest's north side.

After the People’s Republic of China annexed Tibet in 1951, the territory remained closed to t foreign climbers until former premier Deng Xiao Ping’s open-door policy began in 1980, allowing foreign alpinists to enter Tibet. Still, accessing entry and permits remains a challenge making the south side of Everest in Nepal a far more traveled route. Tibet has been far more open to those seeking access to the 8,000-meter peaks as the management of permits and expeditions yields abundant fees for the China Tibet Mountaineering Association. The North Side of Everest finally reopened in 2024 to a Nepalese expedition and three Western expeditions.

According to ExplorersWeb the list of open peaks in 2024 included: Milan Peak (6,100m). Guring La trek/Mt. Kaluxung (6,674m), Kalurong (6,674m), Mt. Pulha Ri (6,404m), Chomo Kara (6,140m), Mt. Chitzi (6,206m), Mt. Jansung Lhamo (6,325m), Nyenchen Tanglha (7,162m), and Kula Kangri (7,538m). We’ll follow-up on which peaks will be open in 2025. (Related Article)

This article first appeared on Outdoors on SI and was syndicated with permission.

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