Large holes in drywall, whether caused by accident, as a result of plumbing repairs, or remodeling, can seem daunting; however, with a little know how, you'll never be able to tell what happened. Patching is a standard drywall repair. It doesn’t even require professional expertise—just a methodical approach and a little patience.
Use a straight edge to draw a clean rectangular or square hole around the drywall damage. A straight-sided shape makes it easier to fit a replacement patch. Use a drywall saw to cut on your lines and remove the damaged area. Make sure the hole edges are straight and smooth by trimming the rough edges.
Pro Tip: If the drywall around the hole is crumbling or loose, cut slightly beyond the drywall damage area to reach rigid material. It doesn't seem intuitive to make the hole bigger, but trust me, it'll be easier overall.
The difference between big holes and small holes is that a large patched area is more likely to concave or convex; worst case, someone could lean against it and push the patch right into the hole. If no wall studs are present behind the hole, install drywall repair clips or a piece of wood (like a furring strip or piece of scrap lumber) as backer boards. Secure the backer wood behind the edges of the opening, then attach the patch to the wood.
Measure the dimensions of the hole accurately (or create a template of the hole using a piece of paper or tracing paper) and transfer those measurements to your new drywall piece. Use a utility knife or drywall saw to cut a patch of drywall to size for the opening. It needs to fit like a puzzle piece. Always double-check your measurements. A snug fit is important. Gaps can lead to weak spots.
Place the drywall patch into the hole and secure it with drywall screws. You might even want want to invest in a drywall screw setter bit to take the guesswork out of getting the perfectly sunken screw. The screw head should be be sunken slightly below the drywall surface, but not so deep it rips through the paper completely. A drywall knife slid over the surface should not make any clicks.
Once the compound dries (allow 24 hours), sand the layer of compound using fine-grit sandpaper until it’s smooth and flush with the wall. Wipe away dust with a damp cloth. There will be a lot of dust during sanding.
If necessary, apply a second coat of joint compound, feathering it even further out from the patch to create a seamless transition. Hit the compound with sandpaper again after it dries. repeat until you have a smooth finish.
Plan to prime the patched area to seal the joint compound and create an even surface for painting. DO NOT paint unprimed compound, you'll have an uneven finish and it will look bad, trust us. Once the primer dries, apply a coat of color-matched paint to complete the repair job. If the paint on your wall is older, you might need to do additional coats of paint or repaint the entire wall for exact color and texture. A paint store or big box store can do an accurate paint match using a paint chip from a piece of drywall material from your repair or dab of paint.
Basic drywall, also called sheetrock, is a construction material made from gypsum plaster pressed between two sheets of thick paper. It’s lightweight, cost-effective, and relatively simple to install, making it the go-to choice for modern interior walls and ceilings; despite it's use, drywall isn’t particularly durable when subjected to force. It’s designed to be lightweight, so bumps from furniture, doorknobs, or home repairs can leave drywall dings, holes, or dents in drywall. While small holes can often be fixed with spackle, larger holes require a sturdier approach.
Premixed spackle is best suited for simple nail holes and cracks. For larger holes, you’ll need joint compound and possibly a drywall patch to ensure the repair is sturdy and blends seamlessly with the rest of the wall.
A drywall saw is the ideal tool for cutting out the damaged section. Measure carefully and use a utility knife to score the edges for clean, straight lines that make fitting the replacement patch easier.
Yes! If the hole isn’t near a stud, you can use drywall repair clips or install a piece of scrap wood (like a furring strip or plywood strips) behind the entire hole to act as backing. This provides stability for the drywall patch and screws.
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