By the grace of the surf gods -- and Mark Hartmann, founder of the Aloha Award -- I was invited to spend a week on Namotu Island Resort, Fiji. The experience was far richer than I could possibly explain in one story but, for starters, this photo gallery from resident photographer, Josh Bystrom, will give you an idea of what one week looks like at the world's premier water sports resort.
The island itself is tiny, you can walk around it seven minutes. The steps I logged were ridiculously low, probably less than 1,000 each day. But my wave count, tube time, and overall stoke, was absolutely off the charts. Beyond my own selfish pursuits, what struck me most about Fiji was twofold: the warmth of the people and the generosity embodied in the Bula spirit, and the absolute beauty of the islands, ocean, and sky.
It almost felt like the planet was showing off and flexing like, 'yeah, this is what you've been missing.' In other words, it was like the Earth was expressing itself to its maximum potential.
Sure, as a surfer (a goofyfoot no less), I'm biased. It must be similar to what it's like for climbers and mountaineers that scale the Himalayas, snowboarders who score bluebird conditions in Alaska, or divers who swim with whale sharks. If I were a holy man, Fiji would be me highest mountain -- a place where little is needed to feel endless wealth and abundance.
The clouds alone were jaw-dropping. The reefs were technicolor explosions of life that merited endless gazing and fascination. The waves were mesmerizing, even from the channel, let alone from inside the tube.
The crew on Namotu couldn't have been better, from the incredible local staff to the phenomenal surf guides like Ulai, Kalani, Spencer Thomas, Matt Dunsmore, and Leon Mosher. I'm happy to say that the other guests were all radical humans in their own right, people whom I'm lucky to now call friends.
I have to give a special shoutout to Alanna Parra, who has a deep relationship with Fiji, and scored the wave of the trip on a very special day at Namotu Lefts.
It's no wonder Namotu is booked out months in advance. Whether or not you stay there, a trip to Fiji is absolutely worth it. Make sure to bring some gifts for the locals as their generosity is what makes it all possible.
Buy the ticket, take the ride. Vinaka!
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