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20ft Winter Swell Aimed at California, Warnings Issued

Originally posted on SURFER | By Dashel Pierson | Last updated Oct 24, 2025 10:53 PM ET

In California, fall feels like a fleeting vapor lingering briefly before the full-fledged winter season sets in. Unlike other, more weather-heavy parts of the country, autumn in the Golden State is a subtle, with occasional warm days mixed in with the coming cold.

But with the winter season comes an uptick in swell energy – particularly from the Northern Pacific. And it appears, the first significant bump of the season is headed towards the northern reaches of the state, like a forerunner for the proper winter ahead.

As the swell approaches, officials are warning for potential dangerous conditions.

Beach Hazards Statement in effect Friday morning through early Monday. A long-period northwest swell will bring breaking waves of 15–20 ft, increasing the risk of sneaker waves and rip currents along the coast. Stay well back from the surf and never turn your back on the ocean. pic.twitter.com/J3n7gSjmFJ
— NWS Bay Area (@NWSBayArea) October 23, 2025

Per the Bay Area National Weather Service (NWS):

“Beach Hazards Statement in effect Friday morning through early Monday. A long-period northwest swell will bring breaking waves of 15–20 ft, increasing the risk of sneaker waves and rip currents along the coast. Stay well back from the surf and never turn your back on the ocean.”

Could it be enough to awaken the sleeping beast of Maverick’s from her summer slumber? Maybe. Per Mav’s local and safety expert Frank Quirarte:

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A post shared by Frankie Quirarte (@mavericks_rescue)

“Heads up, folks — the first real Northwest swells of the season are rolling in this week. With the warm fall weather, it’s easy to think the ocean’s mellow right now, but don’t be fooled — conditions can turn dangerous fast.

“There’s no such thing as a rogue wave on a forecasted swell. Use extra caution near the waterline, especially when walking your pets or just taking in the view. Those sneaker sets can catch anyone off guard.”

Keep an eye out for some swell action in the next few days. And as Quirarte reminded:

“Be safe, be smart, and respect the ocean — she’s waking back up for winter.

This article first appeared on SURFER and was syndicated with permission.

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