After a long and rainy winter, flowers are peeking through the concrete, surfers are donning thinner suits, and beachside surf rental shacks are creaking open. Biarritz is finally ready and poised for another tourist season.
Once an important whaling village, Biarritz, an opulent French town located in the southwest corner of France, has grown into a hub for all things surfing. In recent years, its drastic upscale from a friendly fishing village to a globally known surf destination has made it a summer vacation hotspot not only for the French but also for swathes of surfers from around the world.
Back in the 19th century, however, the city rose to fame for different reasons. Empress Eugénie decided to build the palatial Villa Eugénie (now the Palace Hotel) on the town’s shores, immediately transforming Biarritz into a playground for Europe’s aristocracy.
The arrival of surfing in the region is often credited to a visiting Californian screenwriter in 1956, who introduced the sport while working on a film, quickly capturing local intrigue. So what exactly helped to transform Biarritz into one of Europe’s defining surf destinations today?
To answer this question, I spoke with a few of Biarritz’s better-known friendly faces, including Pierre Kulundzic, founder of Finish Line Atelier, creating custom surfboards, and Leo Le Blanc, founder of Leo Wetsuits, both bespoke brands conceived and designed here in Biarritz.
"Surfers really love going to the same towns,” jokes Leo, “all the best surfers in the world come to Biarritz and Hossegor for the surf festivals and the quick Pro, so it’s become a new stop in the year-round contests”. Pierre also emphasizes Biarritz's geographical location more than anything else, “Of course, the waves are a big part of it, but its geographical position also has something to do with it, being so close to Spain.”
A strong thread of Basque culture also runs through the region: “Those born here with a Basque identity are deeply attached to its traditions and language,” shares Pierre. This connection draws surfers from across the Basque region, with Biarritz evolving into a vibrant cultural hub.
Leo has also noticed that Biarritz sets itself apart from other surf towns as a creative centre above all else: “There’s a really big hub of creativity here. Lots of creative people flock here, especially from Paris, bringing art and culture, so now it’s not only about surfing anymore.”
And Leo isn’t wrong - there always seems to be something new happening here. Whether it’s a gallery opening, a designer launching a studio, or a new festival, the town continues to thrive as a center of creative energy.
However, amid all the excitement and new energy, it can be daunting to start your own business here, especially in a place dominated by major brands - a reality both Pierre and Leo know well.
“There will always be the big brands, of course,” Leo admits, “but I have people reach out to me all the time who want something different, or who don’t fit into most brands' wetsuits.” For both Pierre and Leo, it felt only natural to start their own artistic ventures in a place that sits at the heart of Europe’s surf and creative scene.
Noting this nexus, Pierre often invites shapers from abroad into his workshop, helping foster a growing and diverse community of surfers and artists. “When I was younger I used to spend time in Robin Kegel’s workshop, messing around, looking at his boards, and listening to his stories… Having shapers from abroad in our factory is an opportunity to bring new boards and designs to Europe, but it’s also about friendship. Continuously having new shapers visiting, it feels like school. Every day we keep learning!”
In Biarritz, people are starting to care more about where their stuff comes from and the process of how it is being created - opening up a fertile ground for those with a passion for handcrafted design.
The exchange, in Pierre’s eyes, works both ways: “It became more serious a couple of years ago when I met Tom Morat. He’s so passionate - a great surfer and good with the tools. One day he called me to join him in California. At the time, I was making fins and surfboards, but just by myself, nothing professional. Tom was working at LSD (Lamination San Diego). When I got there, I was very impressed by all the great shapers, sanders, and glassers.”
“When I was there, I thought it was amazing to see how the young shapers were being pushed by an older generation of great shapers like Rich Pavel and great laminators like Alex Villalobos (Superwolf). On the California trip I met Barret Miller, and Nick and Max from NM Surfboards, who all eventually came to shape here in Biarritz at Finish Line.”
From a Californian introducing surfing to the region in the 1950s to this ongoing exchange, it’s clear that the cross-pollination between California and Biarritz remains strong.
“Meeting all those talented shapers in California inspired me to bring this new energy to Europe, where the shaping scene felt still relatively exclusive to the older generation. I wanted to create my own place where we could open the doors for the younger generation.”
As Biarritz continues to evolve, residents like Leo and Pierre wonder what it might mean for the town’s future, and how it can evolve while still respecting its past. As we’re having a chai, Leo remarks, “This place where we’re eating now used to be a bar-tabac. People from all walks of life would sit here and smoke cigarettes and bet on horses. It used to be really fun because you could see all kinds of locals here, but now it’s an upscale restaurant, and while it’s nice, you can only really see one kind of local here.”
However, with all the development, there are issues arising. Pierre shares his concerns, “Housing is becoming very difficult to access. Pollution is a concern, and all year round the lineups are getting more crowded.”
“I think it will always remain a key place in European surf culture,” Pierre notes, “there are always new festivals, shops, and restaurants, and it keeps growing and evolving. But maybe one day there will be limits, especially in terms of quality of life.”
I can’t help but wonder how Empress Eugénie would feel about people from far and wide traipsing along her old stomping grounds in search of the perfect summer. As a town defined by luxury, Biarritz continues to attract those with an eye for beauty, whether that's for surfboards, wetsuits, or surfers. The question now is not whether people will keep coming, but how the town will balance this growth while holding onto the character that drew people here in the first place.
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