As a last gasp of summer, over the weekend, the Wedge came alive.
It was all thanks to Hurricane Narda, which swirled off the coast of Mexico, and sent some healthy south swell towards southern California. Many summertime haunts in the region were ignited, before the fall season officially starts to settle in.
The following clip was not from the latest swell. It was, however, posted recently by everyone’s favorite epic fail surfing account, Kookslams, and their new-ish series in which they hear the stories behind the wipeouts. In this edition, they follow bodyboarder Tre Press at the Wedge, as he gets flicked like a booger in the backwash. See below.
“Oh my goodness,” Press recounts upon seeing the footage. “That was a very fun wave.”
Giving further details on the day, Press continues: “This was a swell back in October at the Wedge. It was a really wonky day…just backwash going everywhere. People were going flying like left and right. This set rolls through. First wave comes by, and I see this guy get launched just straight in the air.”
Then, of course, it’s his turn. And there’s no turning back: “Next wave comes through, and I’m in position for it, so I turn around and paddle. I’m petrified with this backwash wave heading straight at me. I see my friend Lucian [Garber] in the right position with his GoPro held out, and I’m like, ‘there’s no turning back now.’”
The result was spine-crinkling catapult through the air and into the shallow sand. Press recalls: “All of sudden, I’m in a cloud of mist. I can’t see anything. I feel like I’m in the air for like ever. I didn’t know how close the shore was to me. But I knew it was right there. Fortunately, I landed in, like, knee-deep water. I got pinned straight to the sand. And then, I was done for the day.”
But in the end, would he take it back?
“I was stoked with the clip,” Press said. “It was worth it.”
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