The North Shore ain’t all pretty reefs and hollow barrels. Okay, it’s mostly heavy barrels, but not only in the places you’d expect. From V-Land to Log Cabins, this stretch of the North Shore can randomly deliver incredible waves at a moment’s notice. The mix of sand, rock and reef makes for a dynamic playing field. Sand here moves in and out of the area quickly and, depending on the swell, can be firing one day and gone the next.
Case in point, this particular wedge that reared up near John John Florence’s house. Shallow, powerful and not user-friendly. There’s probably a rock or two lurking on the inside, too. Even for guys who grew up surfing these waves their whole lives, it's a game of cat and mouse.
“It’s not Jaws, it’s not Waimea, but it’s super powerful and the hold-downs will probably be gnarly,” Nathan Florence said before paddling out to the public yet seldom crowded wave. Fortunately, the Florences came prepared.
What this wave lacks in perfection and approachability it makes up for with R&D. John and Nathan both test the virtues of a new Florence flotation suit designed to be lighter, cooler and more flexible than typical padded neoprene yet still has a healthy amount of buoyancy.
Alongside Tosh Tudor, Eli Olson, Makana Pang and Koa Rothman. Nathan tests that flotation with a brutal over-the-falls paddle attempt at 3:45 and a punishing pig-dog attempt at 4:46. He even sacrifices his board after getting slammed on the bottom of that latter left. Just another day in the family business.
More must-reads:
Get the latest news and rumors, customized to your favorite sports and teams. Emailed daily. Always free!