Hey Dibi: Is Surfing a Path to Sobriety?

Editor’s Note: Have a question for Dibi Fletcher? She’s definitely got answers. Or at least a perspective. Don’t hold back, shoot her a DM on Instagram and ask away. Here’s this week’s dispatch from the Matriarch of Radical…

Hey Dibi….We celebrate the icons of surf but often forget the lesser-known pioneers. How do we honor the full story without rewriting it? = Freelancewriter
Much of surf history has already been changed through the lens of whoever’s telling the story. I’ve heard and read so many renditions of events told by people who weren’t there that now seem to have taken hold as the truth. Stories I know for a fact have been manipulated for the sake of sales, reputation or a lack of research. Now with most of the early pioneers gone there are just a handful of people left with more than a smattering of facts, so it’s safe to assume the past will keep being massaged to fit the stories of the present.

Hey Dibi…. All my friends surf, I don’t, but paint waves and surfers constantly. Am I just a voyeur, or would you consider me part of the culture even though I don’t paddle out? - SurfartnSand
The Google definition of surf culture: “A lifestyle that includes the people, language, fashion, and attitudes surrounding the sport of surfing”. So as far as the modern interpretation is concerned, you seem to fit the definition, which I believe is what you’re aspiring to. I don’t surf, but I suppose others would consider me a part of surf culture, but I’ve always thought of myself as a devout individualist surrounded by people who surf.

Hey Dibi…I used to sleep in my car to get the best morning shots and sold film prints to pay for gas. Now it’s drones, GoPros, and iPhones. Is there a market left for prints? - SurfFotographerII
I believe there is still a market, but it’s nothing like it was. There are no magazines or corporate advertising budgets that used to be the mainstay of the surf photographer’s income, and most surf photography now is viewed scrolling on social media. But there will always be a market for beautiful surf images in restaurants, hotels and office buildings that have wall space. It may be a bit of a challenge to make the connections at first but if this is the road you want to pursue, you’re going to have to think out of the box and understand you won’t be selling a print of a famous surfer, this market won’t care and won’t know the difference between one surfer and another, they just want beautiful images for the best price. It may not be what you were thinking but best you know the reality before making the commitment.

Hey Dibi…. My partner and I surfed together for 30 years. After he passed, I stopped going in the water. It’s been more than a year, and I feel like I might want to start surfing again, but can’t seem to, do you have any tips? - WaveWidow
I’m so sorry for your loss. I’m sure surfing together all that time was great and I understand the hesitation. I think paddling out and sitting in the lineup the first few times you will be filled with memories of your partner and the great experiences you had together. When you’re riding a wave, you’ll be so engrossed in the present there won’t be room for any other thoughts until the rides over and you paddle out again.  I’m sure this will continue for a while until the day comes in the not too distant future when you’re in the water and the healing that being in the ocean has brought you has done it’s magic and the time you now spend surfing will be a blessing of sweet memories and daily stoke that your partner of thirty years would want for you.

Hey Dibi… I got sober six months ago, and surfing is my “high”. My old crew still parties and it’s hard to feel like I belong without joining in. Can surfing carry me through this? - SoberthenewHigh
I’m sure surfing can be a great activity to enjoy while being sober but surfing alone can’t help you stay that way. One of the realities of being sober is changing behavior and most times that includes the friends you hung with while indulging. If they’re still using it will be hard to stay on track with them as a distraction. It’s OK to change, it’s part of the growth cycle that hopefully we all aspire to. I’m sure after six months you’re noticing the difference in the choices you’re already making. Take inventory of your life and where you’re at now and add a challenge that you’d like to accomplish in a month, six months, a year and prepare to acquire the skills to help you achieve your stated goal. I believe if you keep at this and reevaluate every three to six months, you’ll be truly amazed at the path you’ve set up to travel the hero’s journey.

Hey Dibi… You come from a family of rad board sports people, can being great at something be taught or is it in the gene pool? - SurfCoachFL
I think with all the modern technology and information now available you can produce incredibly talented competitive athletes that would smoke previous generations. I believe there’s an element that can’t be taught, an innate part of the athlete that they don’t have conscious control of but that makes the difference between great and gifted. Occasionally we are privileged to see athletes who have the advantage of excellent training, and natural ability combined, and we are witness to true greatness. There are a handful in every walk of life that change the world we live in but go mostly unnoticed. In the world of boards sports there are many extremely talented and a few standouts in every generation.