Before the sun rose over the ridge, Nathan Florence had paddled to Pipeline in the dark, gotten clamped thrice, snapped a leash on a cleanup set and lost a contact lens. It was a brutal day on this stretch of North Shore reef, the same session in which Tahitian barrel savant Emeio Czermak suffered a compression fracture of his T12 vertebra. Nathan’s video doesn’t go into detail on that incident, but this gives you a glimpse of just how hard this day was, even for the best surfers in the world.
The ensuing 3.5-hour session, condensed for your viewing pleasure above, includes numerous gorgeous waves and horrific-looking wipeouts. As Nathan explains on screen, the wide open barrels were consistently “inhaling” sucking air and surfers into the vortex before exiting spit outward. Sometimes, a surfer comes out with it. Kiron Jabour almost completed “one of the most sought-after waves” in this lineup by nearly connecting a Backdoor right all the way across the reef to Off The Wall. But, like many others, he was inhaled by the foamball.
Nathan also posted some insight into how the current inside of Backdoor, “a dangerous area with lots of uneven reef,’ can split in two directions, one to Off The Wall and another toward the beach park. This is the same sketchy area he nailed his face on last year, and the memory is not pleasant for him. John’s “two waves in five hours” claim at the end of the session may be slightly exaggerated, but it does illustrate that, at the end of the day, Pipeline is still the boss.
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