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Long period forerunners of a large northwest swell have reached the bouys northwest of Kauai. This swell should reach the local waters tonight and quickly build on Thursday. Warning level surf is expected Thursday afternoon through Friday along the north and west facing shores of the smaller islands. Surf may reach well overhead levels along the west facing shores of the Big Island Thursday night through Friday night. This swell will decline Friday night and Saturday. A reinforcing northwest swell should arrive Saturday night, keeping some moderate sized surf in place along north and west facing shores through early next week.

South: South facing shores should have small surf through Saturday. A south swell arriving Sunday should produce a slight increase in the surf that is expected to persist through Monday. East shore surf will trend down during the next couple days, then remain well below normal through early next week. NOAA

Weather: Moisture may linger across the central and eastern islands Thursday into Friday, producing occasional showers that will generally favor windward and mauka locations. A drier and slightly cooler post- frontal airmass will settle in behind the front near the western end of the state.

Expect a return to a drier trade wind pattern this weekend, with a series of progressive low pressure systems and fronts moving eastward well north of the main Hawaiian Islands into next week.

This article first appeared on SURFER and was syndicated with permission.

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