Oftentimes in life, it’s the most difficult tasks that, when completed, offer the biggest fulfillment. Those moments or undertakings, where the risk nearly outweighs the reward.
Same goes with surfing. Ride a big wave, challenge yourself, nail a new maneuver – the gratification multiplies as you step outside your comfort zone.
But the realm of growth potential, within the surfing, extends far beyond pushing yourself to catch a bomb at your local during the a large swell. There are waves out there, those only reserved for the certified experts, where conquering such liquid mountains is a feat of achievement that's a step further than the average joe surfer. Waves like Pipeline.
Above, Surfline’s Chief Forecaster Kevin Wallis teams up with lifelong North Shore local Jamie O’Brien to give one of their classic “Mechanics” video breakdowns of the world’s most revered and feared wave, Pipeline. And just in time, too, as the waves have been pumping in Hawaii, the season is kicking into high gear, and the Florence Pipe Pro begins today.
“The perfect Pipeline,” explains JOB, “is first reef loading up, jacking up, and just standing really tall and mean, with a big square lip. As that lip is landing, the spit absolutely explodes you into the channel.”
Lest we forget about Backdoor.
“Backdoor is an incredible wave,” continues JOB. “You can get a barrel from two seconds to 10 seconds long. This wave is incredible, and it’s very unpredictable.”
Of course, the wave is much more dynamic, more complex, than just first reef Pipeline and Backdoor. There’s the bathymetry, swell direction, trade winds, multiple outer reefs, etc. For a little more of the science-y side of things, here’s the one-and-only Kevin Wallis:
“As these swells approach the North Shore, there’s no continental shelf. So, these open-ocean swells march all the way in with their speed and power intact. That’s what gives Hawaii, and the North Shore, such a powerful feel to the surf.”
Watch the Florence Pipe Pro live here.
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