Does Hollywood ever get surfing right? Sometimes! And when it does, those movies can become cult classics. If it doesn't, they can become pastiches of what the masses think surfing is as opposed to what actually happens in the water.
There's also those movies in the middle, they may not get surfing 100% correct, but the story is so non-twee that it just works – and there's no shortage of decent stories to pull source material from.
The docu-story-telling angle is popular amongst actual surfers and surf filmmakers – but these are away from the Hollywood glitz that is poured over studio productions in order to portray surfing. So those excellent movies aside, here's a list of surf films that Hollywood got right – or as right as they can.
Bodhi and Johnny Utah are cult legends for a reason. Point Break has solidified itself as one of the most rewatchable surf flicks of all-time. Keanu Reeves' Utah is an undercover cop, sent in to infiltrate a notorious crime gang in order to bring them down from the inside out. Along the way, Utah's taught the value of… ahem… friendship, camaraderie and how there's more to life than the stereotypical grind. Sounds familiar? 10-years-later, high-octane car-opera The Fast And The Furious told the exact same story – this time with super cars as the story macguffin. Regardless of how you feel about Point Break, Bodhi heading out into the 50-year-storm may be one of the most interesting endings of any cult-hit film.
Oh boy. Surf's Up inspired a whole lot of surfers – believe it or not. This is the story of surfing penguin Cody Maverick, who sets out to thwart the antics of world champion jerk Tank Evans, under the guidance of namaste and reclusive mentor, Big Z. It's a heartwarming story with one of the more predictable story lines, but fans love it for John Hader's portrayal of blazed-out surfing chicken, Chicken Joe. One for both younger and older audiences.
William Phelps' North Shore is an action, drama flick about Rick Kane (played by Matt Adler), a young surfer who heads to the North Shore of Oahu to make it as a pro. Rick bumps into the likes of Occy and Robbie Page and ends up staying at their house, but is quickly pulled up for his lack of surfing ability. Laird Hamilton stars as the film's big baddie, Lance – a cheating Hawaii native. The film succeeds in showing surfing as it is but surfers as actors is sometimes not a great idea. The storyline has been time and time again -- and then again as part of Surf's Up. Except, penguins. And penguins make everything better.
Ok, we cheated a bit. The Drifter isn't a Hollywood-glitzy production, it is Taylor Steele and Rob Machado, with Rob escaping to a remote corner of Indo to reconnect with himself. But the journey and story points very much resemble a more mainstream movie – with the script penned by Nathan Myers. There's also quite a lot of aspirational surfing in this – a lot of relatability of wanting to perch up on a cliff, over-looking an empty right-hand pointbreak, just you, a board and endless possibilities. That's what hit from The Drifter, it was the personification of the ego-less dream to just surf.
The story of Bethany Hamilton is wild. Arm taken by roving tiger shark while surfing at home in Hawaii, lends itself perfectly as a film script. This is as much a story about resilience, familial ties, acceptance and confidence than it is a surf movie. AnnaSophia Robb stars as Bethany, learning to surf as part of the film. She then went on to continue to surf and fell in love with the ocean. The Hamilton family were on set almost every day of shooting, with Bethany praising AnnaSophia for accurately portraying her passion for the ocean.
An underground cult classic, Ewan McGregor and Catherine Zeta Jones star in this UK-based iconic surf flick, shot in quaint fishing harbour-village, Mousehole. It follows Sean Pertwee's character called JC, a surf instructor as a coming-of-age drama balancing his love of surfing, his friends and a partner who demands more from him. Not to spoil the ending, but JC eventually settles down with Zeta Jones' character Chloe, opting to run a surf shack together combining everything he loves. It's a little different than the Hollywood-esque films on this list as it's a fairly low-budget British B-movie, but worth your time if you can get a hold of it.
Talk about cult classics. Blue Crush stars Kate Bosworth as Anne Marie, and focuses on female surfers living on Oahu's North Shore – eventually entering into the Pipe Masters. Pro surfer Rochelle Ballard stepped in as Bosworth's stunt double. Just a couple years before, Ballard had won the women's division of the SUFRER Op Pro Boat Trip Challenged in the Mentawais, with Occy winning the men's. Blue Crush is still one of surfing's most treasured movies to this day.
The most recent entry on this list and maybe the most controversial. But there are some things Chasing Mavericks just gets right. This is the story of Jay Moriarity of course, how he developed his love for the ocean, went under the tutelage of Frosty Hesson, before surfing the titular big wave Mavericks. There's a feel about the film that isn't really a hero's journey, it is not all win, all the time and tackles real-world problems that face most of us at some point. There's a grounding to it and shows surfing as an escape from everything without glamorizing the act. What it got right is likely down to director Curtis Hanson, who has an avid surfer. Tragically, Chasing Mavericks was his last film, he became too ill to complete the project, which was taken over by Michael Apted. You can tell there was someone who understood surfing at the helm of this.
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