The Caribbean’s Craziest Landing Strip

St. Barthélemy Island’s old stone port was built in the 1500s and still looks a lot the same – much like a Pirates of the Caribbean film set. It’s a safe, friendly, mellow island, that occasionally sees some great waves ... and of course has fabulous food from the French. The airport however is far from mellow – or seemingly safe.

The first time I flew to St. Barths I took a 4-seater Piper Cherokee. I was the only passenger. I was working for Quiksilver as the Director of the Quiksilver Crossing, a collaboration with the Indies Trader, the infamous surf exploration vessel on a global adventure. This was an exploratory mission to get all the maritime paperwork cleared for entering the port the following week.

The pilot was French, so my conversations were clear but rudimentary, as was my French. The airport is on one side and the harbor is on the other, split by a high, rocky ridge. It was a relatively windy day during hurricane season.  As you approach the island you can see the sharp spine of the ridge straight ahead in your sights. The flight path goes right over it on its decent. The pilot actually had me hold down a lever from the ceiling of the cockpit which I assume was a stabilizing gear. I don’t know how close an aircraft is supposed to get to a ridge but I remember seeing the cigarette in a driver’s mouth as a car passed below us.

They say you are close when you can see the whites of their eyes. I could, and my own whites were way oversized at that moment. In all fairness I made several more trips into the crazy landing and as far as I know there has never been an accident. But that’s a little like saying the same about Shipstern’s Bluff. It still feels like insanity.

 Later that night, John the gracious owner of the St. Barth’s Quiksilver store and his lovely French wife, settled me right down with a couple glasses of stiff Ti Punch, and this delicious side dish served with fresh fish or pork.

Santo Domingo Sweet Potatoes with Pineapple-Rum-Balsamic Glaze

INGREDIENTS
6 cups Boniato sweet potatoes, peeled and cut in 2-inch cubes
1 cup Maui sweet onion, sliced thin
¼ cup olive oil
1 ½ cups pineapple cut in small chunks
¼ cup balsamic vinegar glaze
¼ cup Mount Gay Barbados rum
½ cup Caribbean molasses
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated
1 teaspoon Turks & Caicos sea salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper fresh ground
½ teaspoon rosemary, chopped fine

INSTRUCTIONS
Preheat oven to 450F
In a plastic freezer bag drizzle olive oil over sweet potatoes and onions
Toss to completely coat seal tight and marinate for 20 minutes
Cover a shallow roasting pan with aluminum foil
Lay out the potatoes, onions and pineapples in a single layer
Use two pans if needed, but be sure they both fit on the same rack in oven
Sprinkle rosemary salt and pepper evenly
Place pan in oven and cook for 30 minutes or until potatoes start to brown
Remove from oven, turn all items over, and drizzle a couple drops of balsamic glaze, molasses and rum on each sweet potato (the molasses and rum will help caramelize the glaze.)
Return to oven; roast another 20 minutes
When the mixture is browned to your liking, remove from oven and splash rum over all ingredients
Use a spatula to gently transfer sweet potato mixture to a platter or bowl
Serve as a side with flying fish or pork