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Raquel Heckert isn’t what you would call a casual surfer, she’s a big wave huntress. In person, she’s kind, sweet and humble. In the water, she’s fearless and bold. Many of us may be passionate, obsessed, even, with surfing, but few of us have the grit necessary to full on charge big waves. 

Today, she lives on the North Shore and is constantly training and paddling out at spots like Waimea and Sunset but it wasn't always this way. As a girl growing up in Brazil, she knew she wanted to be a surfer ever since she first saw people riding waves, but it wasn't so easy to start. At the time, surfing was totally male dominated and there were few women in the lineup. Once she got her first board, it was off to the races and she did whatever she could to keep surfing. Years later, she became the first woman to get barreled at “Shock”, a treacherous slab wave in Rio de Janeiro and it was clear that Raquel wasn’t just anybody, she was a freak.

In the short video by Freaks of Nature, FIVE MINUTES with Raquel Heckert, we hear how it was her father who got her started and then her grandfather who supported her along the way. Since becoming a recognized surfer, Raquel receives messages from girls and women around the world who have been inspired by her and ask for help and tips on how to get barrelled and surf bigger waves. 

Filmmaker Carl Nard says, "Raquel has this way about her, that just sort of makes you forget about any worry you have at the moment. You can tell she just enjoys every aspect of life. In addition to that, you can tell she’s absolutely in love with surfing and so passionate about what she does.” 

Raquel admits that it’s not always easy, “I haven’t spent Christmas with my family in over 10 years. But I motivate myself with faith and passion to follow my dreams no matter what.”

This article first appeared on SURFER and was syndicated with permission.

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