Adrian Ballinger Leads Rapid Ascent™ Climb on Mount Everest

Rapid Ascent™, a unique and innovative program designed for safer and faster climbing, was invented at Alpenglow. They employ the scientific program on 6,000m, 7,000m, and 8,000m peaks. For more than ten years, Aplenglow has perfected the technique of pre-acclimatization.

Acclimatization requires climbing mountains slowly, incrementally attaining higher and higher altitudes, then returning to lower altitudes to rest and prepare for rotations at elevated altitudes. The regimen results in climbing portions of 8,000-meter peaks several times before attempting the summit, which traditionally takes weeks and months to complete.

Through ‘acclimatizing’, the body produces red cells at an amplified rate and allows the body to become more efficient with less air. Ultimately, climbers can survive on the highest reaches of mountains, including Mt. Everest.

Some climbers have turned to technology to expedite the acclimatization process and the time in dangerous high-altitude zones. Endurance athletes have utilized hypoxic tents for years to improve performance. Now, climbers are using improved technology to start the acclimatization process in the comfort of their own homes, months before departing on expeditions.

The original ‘tents’ have evolved into bags that only cover the head and torso, connected to an air tube and motorized unit. The unit gradually mimics higher and higher altitudes by reducing oxygen levels while the climber sleeps. Rapid Ascent™ teams spend 30 to 50% less time away from home and arrive at base camp well-rested, energized, and prepared to take full advantage of every weather window.

With Rapid Ascent™, acclimatization begins before climbers arrive at base camp by utilizing hypoxic tents and specific training. The process results in acclimatization to altitudes of 17,000 to 19,000 feet in four to eight weeks. When the body is prepared, Alpenglow coordinates logistics to base camp, where the climbing begins.

With Rapid Ascent™, expeditions to the world’s highest peaks typically take 30-35 days, as opposed to the traditional 50 to 60-day horizon.
“Our team knows the limitations and possibilities of Rapid Ascent™ more than any other. We were the first guide service to use hypoxic training at scale,” noted Ballinger.

Adrian Ballinger – Alpenglow Expeditions

Ballinger has led over 150 international climbing expeditions on six continents and has made 17 successful summits of 8,000-meter peaks, including nine on Mt. Everest, four on Manaslu, three on Cho Oyu, and K2 and Lhotse. In 2011, he became the first person to summit three 8,000m peaks in just three weeks, reaching the summit of Everest twice and Lhotse once.

Adrian is the only American to have made three successful ski descents of 8,000m peaks, including the first ski descent of Manaslu from its summit. He is the fourth American to have summited Mount Everest and K2 without supplemental oxygen.

Ballinger performs in all three traditional mountain guide disciplines—mountaineering, Rock Climbing, and Skiing. He is a certified IFMGA/AMGA mountain guide through the American Mountain Guides Association in rock, alpine, and ski certifications.