[Editor's Note: The following is an excerpt from the latest print issue of SURFER. Yes, print. In its pages, you'll find features on the next-generation of female shredders, advice on surfing into your twilight years, the best surf photos from across the globe, the rise of wave pools, of alternative crafts, a journey through Africa's wildest surf destinations, and more. This is just a sample; for the full meal, purchase the new issue of SURFER here.]
Over 200 miles away from the nearest ocean, deep in the heartland of Texas, in a town most well-known, tragically, from a fatal siege hailed in gunfire between religious zealots and the FBI, a Waco native, Brian Fillmore, caught his first real wave. It was during a test session prior to the grand opening of Waco Surf – more like a trial by machine-powered, swell-simulating fire water – that would change the course of his life, and in some way, the surfing world writ large, forever.
“I could not catch a wave to save my life,” Fillmore, 37, recalled. “It was really, really tough. The first day that I surfed there, I was really intimidated. There were a lot of people, a lot of heavy-hitter pro surfers. And I couldn’t catch one. But they were cheering me on. They wanted to see me get it. It wasn’t like it was in the ocean; it was way more of a friendlier vibe.”
Cheyne Magnusson, the Maui pro surfer turned wave pool guru, was the one who tossed Fillmore into the pool – sort of like a mad scientist conducting an experiment on a lab rat.
“I call him ‘patient zero,’” Cheyne said about that fateful first session for Fillmore. “When he first showed up at the pool, he had little-to-no surfing experience, but he was hungry. So, I threw him out into the pool, and turned it on just to see what would happen. He was getting absolutely worked. But he would not give up. He kept going. And that’s when I knew that this was my guy. Then, he went from literally not being able to catch a wave, to landing airs in the span of a couple years.”
For a lot of folks, whether they have surfing experience or not, their first attempt in a wave pool can be a jarring, foreign, and humbling experience. And yet, ever since Kelly Slater unveiled his earth-shattering, Lemoore, California lagoon to the masses on a sleepy December day in 2015, the surf world has gone chlorine crazy. The floodgates were opened.
In the years following Kelly’s big reveal of the Surf Ranch, numerous other operations have emerged from all corners of the globe, spawning a wave pool revolution for the modern age. Since 2015, dozens of facilities have opened – from spots in the USA to Asia to Europe to Australia and beyond. And while some surf purists, rather validly, view man-made waves as an abomination to mother nature, some synthetic cyborg forebearer of a dystopian future, there are those that see the promise of the pool. They are, in fact, harbingers for progression, a good time once you get the hang of them and, perhaps most importantly, bringing the joy of surfing to those who might’ve never had the opportunity, access, or means.
“There have never been more surfers in the water, nor a more diverse group,” said Vipe Desai in the most recent Diversity in Surfing report fromthe Surf Industry Membership Association (SIMA). “Surfing is growing not only in the US but globally…close to a million new people have discovered surfing over the past five years, many of whom are people of color. Diversity is the driving force behind the increase in numbers of core participants in surfing, which will fuel growth in our industry, and it’s important to note there’s no single silver bullet—rather, it’s a collective effort.”
While there’s no actual numbers on the impact that wave pools have had on the explosion of participation that surfing has seen in the post-Pandemic, early-Olympics era of the sport – at least not yet – the surf park effect can be seen by the demographics in the pools, the conversations in car parks and, of course, in the traditional lineup.
Rob Kelly, professional surfer and Brand Manager for PerfectSwell® (the folks behind Waco Surf, a couple high-profile pools in Brazil, one in Japan, and another in a New Jersey mall), has also seen firsthand how wave pools have been a supplier of stoke to surf-starved patrons.
“Honestly, it goes beyond stoked,” Kelly said. “I’ve seen people have religious experiences. The word I use is elation. One pro described packing for a trip to a PerfectSwell® venue as giving him the same feeling as seeing a huge swell on the forecast. Another said his mouth literally starts watering when he hears the waves powering up. A famous podcaster surfed with me in 40-degree water and after said ‘what could be more fun than that?’ as he looked into the sky almost confused at the experience he just had. Surfers of all levels struggle to get out of the water because of how truly addicting and fun PerfectSwell® waves are. My favorite moment is when someone gets barreled, probably for the first time, and has the look of sheer euphoric surprise as they complete the wave. It’s especially obvious in groms who can’t contain the stoke.”
There are, of course, some barriers to entry in relation to the world of wave pools. When it comes down to it, it’s a business. And businesses have costs to operate, investors to please, staff to pay, and an experience to curate. Translation? Wave pools cost money – both for patrons, and for the entities operating them. Surf sessions at wave pools ain’t cheap. At least not yet in the modern surf park boom. But on the flipside, the wave pool trade is also serving as a boon for the struggling surf industry as a whole. It’s simple math: more surfers = more money.
"Whether you’re just learning to pop up, or you’re learning how to stick a backflip. Either way, wave pools are paving the way to a new future of surfing, and future surfers, too. Some surfers might be turned off by that, and I get it. But surfing is rad. Why not share it?”
Cheyne Magnusson
One of the preeminent players in the surf park game is Wavegarden. They have, per capita, more pools in operation, under construction, and planned than any other man-made wave operation.
“We envision Wavegarden surf pools in most capital cities worldwide,” said Marketing and Communications Manager for Wavegarden, Guillermo Díaz del Río, about the future vision for the business. “Surfing performance will continue to progress at all levels, with an accelerated learning curve allowing more people to surf better and more frequently. We are confident that innovation and growth will continue - not just in our company but across the entire sector. Who knows? One day, wave pools may be featured in the Olympic Games, not just as a training tool but as the main stage, guaranteeing identical, ideal conditions for every competitor. Imagine an Olympic surfing event in a stadium-like arena, just as we see in other sports.”
Similarly, PerfectSwell® powered by American Wave Machines, blends the business side of wave pools with their passion for introducing surfing to those who have never had the opportunity. And it’s not just bringing new waves to new surfers; there’s also the impact wave pools have on the surf industry at large.
“The mission is to continue increasing opportunities to participate in, to work in, and to compete within the sport of surfing,” said American Wave Machines Founder, Bruce McFarland. “Our sport’s high-level athletes don’t have enough opportunities to leverage their talent. Our experts and coaches need platforms to best utilize their skill sets and teach those wanting to learn. The next generation would benefit from the opportunity to access more training. Myriads of other surf enthusiasts would like an opportunity to simply work in the industry they’re passionate about.”
Speaking to the impact on surfing’s job market, McFarland continued:
“PerfectSwell® venues inflate the number of opportunities across the board, increasing participation at every level, including competitions. They [PerfectSwell®] venues bring a variety of new jobs to the surf industry. This mission is important to us because surfing is a healthy and wholesome activity done outside, in the sun, and can improve people’s lives. Our expansion will increase opportunities, not just in or at our venues, but throughout the surf industry, boosting board sales, equipment sales, and it may even prompt a resurgence in the prevalence of surf retail.”
Not all pools are created equal, however. Unlike some operations, like Wavegarden’s mass proliferation of man-made surf spots, the Kelly Slater Wave Company offers a more exclusive experience, with a price that reflects that. It’s no wonder why an invitation to the Surf Ranch has oft been likened to getting a golden ticket, and thus, access to Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory.
And yet, for those lucky enough to gain access to Surf Ranch’s hallowed grounds, the opportunity does not go to waste. Especially when one man is on the job.
Raimana Van Bastolaer, the barrel-chested Tahitian charger, had a surf career of his own, primarily centered around his home island’s most infamous spot: Teahupo’o. But the trajectory of his professional path shifted with the rise of Surf Ranch. He was brought on to run the pool, and to assist guests in catching their first (and likely best) waves of their lives. In addition to teaching average joes, he’s also become somewhat of a surf coach to the stars – administering a dose of synthetic stoke to everyone from Matthew McConaughey, to Prince Harry, to Cindy Crawford, to Ivanka Trump.
“You know what I love the most?” Raimana said via video chat from his oceanfront home in Tahiti during a well-deserved break from his gig in Lemoore. “When people show up at Surf Ranch, and they see the gate open, they’re just so stoked. They’re like, ‘oh my god, we’re finally here.’ They’re so excited. Then they get in the water, the machine starts, and it’s like, ‘oh man, here we go.’”
Raimana has gone viral on many occasions, not just for his celebrity clientele, but for his uncanny, extremely hands-on approach to teaching folks how to surf. In some cases, he quite literally forces his students to surf, manhandling them on giant soft-tops, physically propping them up like a mannequin in a boutique. If someone’s dropping thousands of dollars to ride the mythical wave at Surf Ranch, Raimana makes sure they get their money’s worth.
“These people come, and maybe they’re only there to join their partner, or maybe they think they’re too old to surf,” Raimana continued. “These are the people that I target. These are the people that I get most happy to show the joy of surfing. I don’t care if they catch a wave on their stomach, on their knees, if they stand up…whatever it is, as long as you ride the wave from the beginning to the end, that’s what I want. My job is to take the person who doesn’t think they can surf, and at the end of the day, they’ve caught their own wave from start to finish. They’re officially a surfer.”
From beginners to avid surfers, wave pools are a vehicle for progression. The tub has long been likened to a skatepark, an arena unlike the natural, unpredictable ocean – one in which the same wave, same tube, same ramp can be recreated by the press of a button. Surfers, as a result, have the opportunity to hone their skills at a much faster rate than they would in the big blue. Already, despite being in the primordial ooze era of modern man-made surf spots, the evolution of the sport has been seen and documented. And that’s especially true when it comes to aerial surfing. Backflips, for instance, once a rarely realized aerial feat have now become commonplace for pro surfers in the pool. Similar to the air reverse, but not quite there yet, backflips in the pool are nearly routine, almost to the point of desensitization.
For more, purchase the latest issue of SURFER here.
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