
I hope Joel Parkinson knows how lucky he is. This fall, during a Billabong ambassador trip, was the first time he laid eyes on North Carolina’s premier, if inconsistent, 200-mile sandbar. And he got arguably the day of the year at the Outer Banks with just a few mates. Although the 2012 world champ has long since retired from competitive surfing, he's as keen as ever to cut through an easy right-hander.
“I did a boat trip last year for Billabong, went for 10 days and we got skunked,” Joel said. “It doesn’t matter where you go or what you do, surfing is one of those things where it’s all about timing. And we got lucky enough to be in the Outer Banks with good timing.”
But during this conversation between Joel and REAL Watersports founder Trip Forman (which covers his go-to shortboard and the profound speed of the Black Barron), the two talked about the times when things weren’t so rosy in Joel’s career. Before he won his 2012 world title at Pipeline, Joel finished runner-up four times: 2002, 2004, 2009 and 2011. Andy Irons, Mick Fanning and Kelly Slater all had better timing than he did.
Joel said the 2009 finish at Pipeline, with him dueling with his best mate Mick, still stings to this day. After surfing through an ankle injury, Kalani Chapman stopped him in his tracks for the year. “That was probably the hardest one because I went all year with like a 5,000-point lead,” Joel said. “And it all fell apart on the last day.”
In the face of that loss, Joel responded in the counterintuitive way so many pro surfers preach but rarely find success in. He stopped putting pressure on himself and tapped into his strengths. “I actually just concentrated on just me enjoying my surfing and surfing good,” Joel said. “I really tried to focus on more points of heat strategy than what was going on in the gym.”
Post-tour life finds 44-year-old Joel still cooking his JS surfboards on the Gold Coast and abroad, but with more foam-friendly options. One thing Joel notes for those interested in the Black Baron is that it’s a true groveler. Powerful surf is not in this thing's wheelhouse. But it has a magic window when you’d least expect it. “For the first 12 months after I retired, I never rode three fins,” Joel said. “I only rode twin fins. Now I ride all sorts of stuff. And this (Black Barron) feels like freedom for me. It makes you happy. You never have a bad surf. Even on the shittiest wave you’ll catch in a session, this board feels good.”
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