The east African nation of Mozambique, known for waves like African Kirra, has been embroiled in civil unrest since its general elections on October 9, resulting in the death of more than 67 people. Recent days marked an escalation in the violence as all roads in and out of the capital city of Maputo were reported to be closed after a woman was run over by an armored vehicle, sparking further violent clashes between protestors and police. Roads have been closed for three days across the city.
Young people have taken to the streets of Maputo and other cities across the country for weeks, challenging the re-election of a Frelimo party president amidst allegations of election rigging. Frelimo has been in power since Mozambique gained independence from Portugal in 1975 after it led the movement to push out the Portuguese who occupied the country for 400 years. Surfers traveling to Mozambique have reported border and road closures that have prevented travel to wave-rich regions such as Praia Do Tofo located a day's drive north of Maputo.
Opposition leader Venâncio Mondlane who has reportedly fled the country due to safety concerns has called for roads to be blocked from 12-4pm daily nationwide in protest of the election results. In recent weeks police and protestors have clashed in the streets of Maputo where police have opened fire on protestors who have been banging pots and pans in expression of their opposition to the outcome of the polls. In more recent days the protests have expanded up to the area around Vilanculos, the coastal city north of Tofo, where further road closures have been reported. Political leaders have been in negotiations over the last few days in order to resolve the unrest, but the retiring president Filipe Nyusi was seen departing Maputo by helicopter.
Mozambican surfer and Tofo local Sung Min “Mini” Cho said that there hasn’t been any issues accessing surf spots around the area but traveling surfers might have some problems: “I’ve already had to tell some friends and people that I know to cancel their trips because there is a lot of tension right now in the country,” Mini said, “so it’s not advised because you have to fly into Maputo and from there you travel.”
“I think traveling surfers should be aware that it’s a tough time for Mozambicans. As a young person I am also behind the movement because we obviously want change. I would not advise coming at this time because of the political climate and if surfers do plan to come I would just stay along the coast and avoid major cities and capitals because it’s a lot more tense.” Mini said.
Mozambique was embroiled in civil war from 1977 to 1992 as the southern based Marxist party of Frelimo battled Renamo, a northern based non-state armed group. After the war ended, Mozambique opened up to tourism and point breaks have been discovered along its almost 3,000 kilometer long coastline. A growing local surf community as well as a burgeoning surf tourism industry have presented a new future on the country’s horizon.
Young people across the country have expressed frustration with the ruling party with the country’s recent history defined by corruption and economic decline. While huge gains in tourism have been made, many of the local community have not felt its impacts and Mozambique remains one of the poorest countries in the world.
“Unfortunately I think that all this that’s going on is going to have a heavy effect on tourism.” Mini said, “From what I’ve heard, there are already up to 50% cancellations on end of year bookings in Inhambane [where Tofo is located] and tourism is going down. Tourism is affected, locals are affected. The after effects of all this are going to be pretty intense. But hopefully change happens so that all this is worth it.”
“I do hope that there is change, I do hope that there is transparency with the elections and the results. We’re a nation of very young people so there are a lot of young people who are following the movement through social media, so let’s hope there is change.” Mini said.
So far no violence has been reported in the small coastal surf towns like Tofo and Ponta do Ouro, but travel in and out may be difficult. There has also been a communications curfew in place, with the internet turned off at 7pm each night. Only those with Starlink have been able to continue with full communications.
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