‘Mountains of Water’: Hurricane Kiko Brings Big Waves to Oahu (Video)

On Oahu’s southeastern shore, the famed shorebreak waves of Sandy Beach lit up on Tuesday in the midst of Kiko’s storm-fueled fury. And despite warnings from officials of the strong surf, that didn’t stop folks from heading down to Sandys to watch and ride the waves.

“The energy definitely is a lot more intense,” one surfer said. “You get a lot more forceful, kind of forward motion in the waves. So, there’s a lot more opportunity for it to open up, and to get barreled, and for us to have the rides we’re really looking for.”

As for the shorebreak, one visiting Maui resident said:

“It is cool to see it. Yeah, those are big waves. We wanted to bodysurf, but it’s a little too hectic.”

From Surfline, regarding the notorious shorebreak of Sandy’s:

“However, Sandy's is more known for the crazy beachbreak shorepound. The sand bottom zone of about 250 yards between the two rock outcroppings can get very solid and dangerous wedging hollow barrels (often spitting), but usually all closeouts, just off dry sand or even on it. This zone is not for boards -- bodysurfing only. This is also a common place for injuries, from either the wave pounding you into the sand or falling on other people.”

Tropical storm Kiko is expected to exit the Hawaiian Islands area later this week.