Surfing has been around for centuries. It is well-known that the ancient Polynesians and Hawaiians were among the first to ever ride the waves, but there are accounts of surfing that go back even further.
The first surfer in Bali was the handsome photographer, tennis coach, CIA agent, and natural-footer Bob Koke. Koke had learned to surf in Waikiki when he had been an assistant to the film director shooting the 1932 film, Bird of Paradise.
*Disclaimer. The author is a proud goofy. Surfing’s great line in the sand, and battleground, is never not a part of surfing. With surfing cleaved into two sections, how could it be?
These days, surf fans know Rosy Hodge as the voice of post-heat interviews and in-the-booth play-by-plays. The South African-born surfer, once a Championship Tour standout, has become one of the most recognizable WSL commentators.
In California, fall feels like a fleeting vapor lingering briefly before the full-fledged winter season sets in. Unlike other, more weather-heavy parts of the country, autumn in the Golden State is a subtle, with occasional warm days mixed in with the coming cold.
Around 20 years ago, when the surf industry writ large was still floating well above water, Reef sandals came to their star athlete, Mick Fanning, with a concept.
What John Peck started at Pipeline 62 years ago, Barron Mamiya has taken and molded it into a rare display of athleticism and hydrodynamic knowledge. There’s pigdogging and then there’s what Barron does.
When it comes to protecting the ocean, the challenge is that for many people it is out of sight, andtherefore, out of mind. As surfers, we are in the mix on a regular basis so we are more likely to be aware of issues as they pertain to our local zones but there's a lot more out there than our own shores.
Like the gentle trades, swaying palms, and motion in the ocean, spend a few winters on the North Shore and the Island reggae vibrations soak into your soul.
John Peck, the pioneering Pipeline surfer who is widely revered as the first regularfooter to ride inside the tube at the infamous wave, has died. He was 81.